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1915 




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THE BEAUTIES 



OF THE. 



TATE of WASHINGTON 







by HARRY F.GILES-DEPUTYCoMMiSSiOHEJ5^ 

TATE BUREAU STATISTICS 8t IMMIGRATION 

iHHOWHJL-SiCRETARr of STgri-E*0FFiao Commissioner. 



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THE RHODODENDRON, WASHINGTON'S STATE FLOWER 

"Flowers rich as morning's sunrise hue" 

Copyright by Asahel Curtis 




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IS" 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

Paije 

List of Full Page Illustrations 3 

The Evergreen State 5 

Our Mountains 9 

Washington Forests 15 

The Climate 19 

Puget Sound 25-38 

Ideal for Yachting and Cruising 29 

Hood Canal 29 

Other Trips 31 

Commerce 32 

The East Shores 32 

The Islands : 33 

San Juan Group 33 

Whidby Island 36 

Other Islands 36 

Olympic Peninsula 38 

The Harbor Country 40-48 

Grays Harbor 43 

Willapa Bay 46 

Mount Rainier National Park 49 

The Columbia River 54 

The Inland Empire 63-80 

Chief Features 64 

How to Reach Them 64 

The Yakima Valley 65 

The Wenatchee Valley 67 

Lake Chelan 68 

The Okanogan Highlands 70 

The Spokane Country 75 

The Wheat Plateau 79 

The Walla Walla Country 80 

The Columbia River 80 

Our Scenic Highways .... = . 81-89 

The Pacific Highway 81 

Sunset Highway 84 

Inland Empire Highway 86 

Olympic, National Park, and Other Highways 89 

A Sportsman's Paradise 91 

Cities and Suggested Trips 95 

Alaska — Our Ally 112 

Map Showing Principal Highways 



«• of D. 
•A* U 1915 



FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 

, , Miss Zola P. Gruhlke 

Cover Design (a water coloO ^ -^ Engraving & Colortype Co., Seattle 
Engravings *** 

THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. 

Photographer. ^ayc 

Title. Asahel Curtis. . . .Frontispiece 

The Rhododendron (U) Kiser Phot o Co » 

Lake Chelan (C.) Curtis & Miller Jj 

A Forest Stream • Webster & Stevens ** 

A Puget Sound Sunset . . . • • • • • - y ■ • . g & MiUer 49 

Mount Rainier and Mirror Lake lUJ ^^ Curtis 64 

Sunnyside Canal (C.) 80 

Priest Rapids ...... ■■'•■- q almon ' (C.j .Kiser Photo Co 9b 

Columbia River from White Salmon «w 

ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. 

..Curtis & Miller 4 

Deep Lake . . . . • • • ■ • • .Romans Photo Co J> 

Snoqualmie Falls (C.) 10 



Mount Baker (Gr ) . . . . •■■••• }' c \ .'kiser Photo Co } 2 

Looking Across the Cascades (C.) R 14 

Principal Trees in Washington 18 

Lumber Industry (Gr.) ••••••• ';A\ .Asahel Curtis 21 

Sunset Falls and Mount Index (C.) * 23 

Yachting on Puget Sound (Gr.) 24 

Bremerton Scenes (Gr) Avery & Potter 27 

Tacoma and The Mountain. . . . . . . • • Avei * 28 

Eastern Shores of Puget Sound (Gr.) .... • ■ — £ '^ ef 30 

Seattle and The Olympics ^ A McCo rmick 34 

San Juan Islands (Gr.) • • • • 37 

Olympic Mountain Scenes (WJ 'cHito & Miller 39 

Lake Crescent .....••• • . Asahel Curtis f- 

The Chehalis River (C.) ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ • • 44 

Southwest Washington Views (Gr.) ^ s 47 

Surf on Washington Coast (C.) . , Ab 51 

Mount Rainier National Park (Gr. ) ...^ p - — aM 53 

Mount Rainier and Lake Washington ^ J 56 

Along the Columbia River (Gr.) 58 

Salmon Fishing Industry (Gr.) Asahel Curtis JO 

Snake River Country Curtis & Miller 62 

Rock Lake " ' " Curtis & Miller *b 

The Yakima Valley. Curtis & Miller £9 

The Wenatchee Valley • • • ■ 71 

The Okanogan and Methow (Gr.) • ■ ■ • 73 

Irrigation Scenes (Gr.) Frank Palmer Ji 

City of Spokane 7b 

Wheat Fields (Gr.) ••••••• " 78 

Walla Walla Scenes (Gr.) ••••••• 82 

Along the Scenic Highways (Gr) - • • • —.- g5 

Olympia, Our Capital City (Gr.) palmer g7 

Spokane Falls and Bridge. Humes 90 

Wild Elk in The Olympics (C.) bc Collier 92 

The Angler's Reward 94 

S P u?L^ C g EouSuonal •institutions (Gr.) '. '. '. V. '. • ■ ; • • • ■ ; ; ; " 

Our Earliest Pioneers (Gr.) 105 

Seattle's Boulevards (Gr.) 108 

Tacoma's Parks (Gr.) •••••••■• HI 

Alaska, Land of the North (Gr.) 

Those marked (Gr.) are groups; (C.) means copyright. 







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The state of Washington, most northwesterly state in the 
Union, named for the "Father of His Country" and popularly 
called the "Evergreen State," brings greetings. 

For all who would behold, at close range, Nature in her most 
beautiful expression when all component elements have been 
harmoniously combined, these words of welcome are written. 
You are invited to come and share the joy that emanates from the 
satisfaction of living in a country as nearly perfect as any that 
earth has to offer. 

In the creation of this region nothing was overlooked that 
might appeal to the most fastidious. An empire within itself, 
it is provided with all things for ministering both to man's 
physical needs and to his innermost longings. All forces have con- 
tributed towards its glory. More careful preparation was never 
made for the coming of man in any clime. Mountains that 
reach to heaven and echo the music of celestial choirs in their 
innumerable streams and waterfalls ; valleys and plateaus that 
spring into life when pricked by the harrow of the husbandman ; 
forests of big trees, perpetually green, to adorn and protect ; 
the greatest of oceans to temper with its breezes ; inland seas 
and azure lakes to embellish and attract — such are a few of the 
elements that make the State of Washington and provide beau- 
teous homes for its people. 

Have you yet discovered that cozy retreat imagined in your 
youthful impressionable days, where true happiness is bound to 
reign? You can find it here — a place where wonderful pictures, 
real and far grander than the famous paintings of your favorite 





SNOQUALMIE FALLS (268 FEET)— "THE NIAGARA OF THE WEST. 
Copyright by Romans Photo Co. 



State of Washington 



artist, are constantly visible from your kitchen window or from 
your work shop — and they need no expensive frames to enhance 
their loveliness and no dusting to prevent their obscurity. 

What are your favorite pastimes? Are you one of the 
brave mountaineers who must yearly draw near the Almighty, 
and dare the elements by treading dangerous yet entrancing 
trails to heights where the world appears at your feet? 
Do you love to cruise in a little yacht built to accommodate 
yourself and a few well chosen friends, or motor over scenic 
highways to places of interest both near and far? Do you 
regard yourself a mighty hunter and desire so to convince 
your friends? Or would you be content to angle for the finny 
denizens of the deep with a certainty that you will not in turn 
be tantalized? 

The state of Washington affords unusual opportunity for 
all these. Its mountains, glaciers and waterfalls are not ex- 
celled by the 
most boasted 
scenes of 
Switzer land. 
Almost the 
year round the 
waters of 
Puget Sound 
and the har- 
bors of the 
southwest in- 
vite the small 
craft. Nearly 
50,000 miles 
of scenic 

highway, passable for twelve months in succession, are ready for 
your automobiles. Game, both large and small, feathered and 
hoofed, will lure you through many a jungle of delicate fern and 
sweet scented bramble ; while countless streams and lakes teem 
with fish of many species. 

Picturesque parks, dazzling sunsets, roaring ocean surf, 
cozy camping sites, beach parties and clam bakes, college regat- 




MOUNT ADAMS AND FOREST-COVERED FOOTHILLS. 



8 The Beauties 

tas, midwinter fairs, roses at Christmas, golf the year round on 
turf that's always green — these are a few of the charms that are 
as common in the state of Washington as sands in the Sahara, 
or ice at the Poles. 

If you are drawn by none of these, but desire only to satisfy 
that exalted yet mysterious feeling which lurks in everyone's 
breast, becoming manifest when the greatest works of the firm- 
ament are beheld, then by all means visit this the "Evergreen 
State" and drink in the glories which no book, howe'er so well 
written, and no picture, whoe'er the artist, can portray with any 
degree of fullness or accuracy. 

Washington is a region of variety and strong contrasts. 
At one moment you may be jostled along the streets of some 
metropolitan center among people of many nationalities and 
within a mere hour or so be wafted to a sequestered spot of tran- 
scendent beauty, where no voice but your own is echoed by the 
hills and where the existence of any other human being to share 
this planet can be completely forgotten. 

It is a state of large accomplishments. Big projects are 
planned ; mammoth irrigation schemes are carried out ; lands 
are reclaimed from the deep ; orchards fill its valleys ; wheat 
plateaus extend for miles ; salmon traps line the shores ; its 
lumber supplies the world ; its ships sail all the seas ; monstrous 
bridges cross the waterways ; buildings vie with the highest any- 
where constructed ; its schools rank first in the Union ; its men 
contribute to the world's greatness ; its women vote and rear 
capable families ; the people make their own laws. Loyalty, 
originality, enterprise, independence and liberality, all attributes 
of the western spirit, are evident throughout the state. 

Its population has grown in twenty odd years from 343,000 
to over 1,400,000. In the meantime, wildernesses have been con- 
verted into gardens, villages have developed into towns, while 
towns have grown into cities, taking their places among the 
leading marts of the world. From a frontier state it has come 
to be one of the greatest and most important in the Union, add- 
ing to the galaxy of stars one of the brightest that has yet ap- 
peared on the horizon. 




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Perhaps the most prominent feature which attracts the eye 
of a visitor upon his arrival in the Pacific Northwest consists 
of the mountain ranges with their towering snowcapped peaks, 
forming, as it were, ladders reaching from the green vales of 
earth to the blue vaults of heaven. Silhouetted against the sky 
in the hazy distance, they are noted by the westward bound trav- 
eler as soon as he reaches the highest point in the divide of the 
Rockies, while to the mariner groping his way eastward upon 
the Pacific Ocean they offer the first evidence of the nearness of 
the welcome land. 

These mountains mean much to the state of Washington, 
both for their scenic grandeur and for the favorable influence 
they exert on the climate and on the lives of the people who 
build their homes in the valleys below. Their supremacy is re- 
flected by the thermometer, the barometer, and the aerometer ; 
for they help regulate the temperature, the rainfall, and the 
wind's velocity. They form great repositories for the waters 
that feed the streams and keep full the cities' aqueducts. Within 
their immeasurable depths lie buried huge deposits of precious 
and useful metals, besides vast fields of bituminous coal. Their 
lower zones provide fertile and safe localities for the growth of 
Washington's big timber, while the alpine meadows above se- 
cure for the timid deer and ptarmigan asylums of temporary 
freedom from too frequent disturbance by prowling huntsmen. 
Still higher are the rugged bare prominences, reserved for the 
wild goat or mountain sheep, and the snow fields traversed by 
the more venturesome seeking to gain the summits. Everywhere 
the true sportsman finds ample opportunity for proving his 




MOUNT BAKER— FORTY MILES EAST OF BELLINGHAM. 



State of Washington 11 

piowess, while trailing the beast to its lair, and the sight-seeking 
mountaineer is fully rewarded for all the struggle required to 
reach some dizzy height. 

Within the immense bosoms of these mountains nestle innu- 
merable lakes, beauteous beyond compare, near whose shady 
shores is many a sequestered spot, most tempting to the camper 
who loves the mountain region ; and many a brook goes trickling 
over its stony course to join the rivers below, pausing here and 
there in some shady dell to create a deep pool for luring the fish- 
erman, or hurling itself over some lofty precipice as a waterfall 
of wonderful magnitude and magnificence. 

The mountains are a link connecting us with the past. They 
remind us perhaps of the period when volcanoes belched forth 
their fiery refuse, or of the era when the sea covered most of 
what is now land. Indestructible they stand and their rocky 
heights are in places insurmountable. The works of man trespass 
everywhere else, but these huge pillars of the ages rise in their 
majestic splendor and with sublime dignity seem to say: "Thus 
far and no further ! We will preserve and guard your water 
and fuel supply. We will protect you from the furies of the 
elements and produce materials for building your palaces. We 
will create charming nooks where you may camp under the 
clear sky, and shady forests where you may pursue the chase. 
We will fill the brooks with swift darting fish ; carpet the 
meadows with myriads of flowers, ferns, and shrubs ; and paint 
you pictures undreamt of by men who have scorned our 
acquaintance. You are permitted to build roads whereby your 
Pullmans and your automobiles may cross to the other side, but 
not one of cur number shall be moved nor its form be changed 
in the least, except by that same invisible power at whose mighty 
will we were brought into existence." 

Each mountain range possesses its own distinct character- 
istics. Of least importance, but none the less beautiful, are 
the Blue Mountains in the southeastern corner of the state, 
providing pleasant summer retreats for the people in that 
vicinity. The Olympic range practically envelopes the Olympic 
Peninsula and all but encroaches upon the agricultural lands 
lying between the foothills and the salt waters on three sides. 




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State of Washington 13 

In this range are the most rugged mountains in Washington, 
presenting some of the wildest and most inspiring scenery any- 
where to be found. 

Most prominent and of greatest importance in the geography 
of the state are the Cascades, having an average altitude of from 
5,000 to 8,000 feet and named for the many hurrying streams 
that have cut their deep courses upon the shady slopes. They 
extend from the British Columbia line slightly southwest until 
divided by the Columbia river, whence they continue through 
Oregon and become the Sierra Nevadas of California. By them 
the state of Washington is separated into two quite distinct 
parts, known as Eastern and Western Washington, the former 
comprising a portion of the great Inland Empire. Forming a 
sort of spur on their east side, north of the Columbia, and extend- 
ing to the mountains of Idaho are the beautiful rolling hills 
known as the Okanogan Highlands from 5,000 to 6,000 feet in 
altitude without sharp abrupt prominences and bearing on their 
higher surfaces forests of pine. 

Throughout the Cascade range several prominent peaks 
tower above the others like giants among dwarfs. The loftiest 
by far is Mount Rainier (or Mount Tacoma), second highest 
mountain in the United States proper, 14,408 feet in altitude 
and the chief mountain resort out of Seattle and Tacoma ; 
Mount Adams, 12,307 feet, on the boundary line of Skamania 
and Yakima counties ; Mount St. Helens, 9,697 feet high, at 
the western edge of Skamania county, reached from Castle 
Rock or Vancouver; Mount Baker, 10,730 feet, forty miles 
from Bellingham and one of its main attractions ; Mount 
Stuart, 9,470 feet, in Chelan county; and Glacier Peak, 
10,436 feet, in Snohomish county. In this latitude 7,500 feet 
is the snow-line, but Washington has many peaks above that 
elevation. Fifty-seven have already been named and measured. 

All these peaks are accessible and, together with Mount 
Olympus in the Olympics, constitute the main goals of the moun- 
tain loving clubs of the northwest. Mountain phenomena are dis- 
played in all with a maximum degree of grandeur, insuring ample 
reward to those venturing to explore their many fastnesses. 




A FIR, A CEDAR, AND A HEMLOCK — PRINCIPAL TREES IN WASHINGTON. 

Photo by C. H. Ziddell. 



^T^MING-TON FORE<3{f\S X 

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Dense forests of evergreen trees almost envelop the hills and 
mountains of the state of Washington. Scarcely any portions 
were originally left bare, excepting the higher peaks, which in a 
spirit of independence seem to have pushed their bald heads 
up and above this beautiful covering protecting the regions be- 
low. Into the fertile valleys and along the river banks clear to 
the sea the stately ranks of these forests once advanced, but 
such localities are now, for the most part, given over to the 
cities and the husbandmen or else in a state of semi-transforma- 
tion are awaiting the day when they too will be devoted to the 
peaceful pursuits of agriculture ; for the broad Columbia plain 
was the only part of the state dedicated from the first to the sole 
task of producing food supplies rather than fuel and building 
material. 

About ten million acres of these forests have been locked up 
in eleven national reserves, and set aside for our future needs, 
or to insure permanent haunts where Nature may always be seen 
in her full pristine glory — Conservation ! Nearly six million 
acres more are under private ownership. Investigation reveals 
evidences that their birth occurred very many years ago, possi- 
bly five hundred or even six hundred years ; for that many rings 
have been counted on some of the largest trees. The foliage 
appears every month in the year just as beautiful as when it 
first mingled with the landscape — hence the name "Evergreen 
State." 

The effect produced by this verdant growth upon the scen- 
ery of the state of Washington can be best realized by climbing 



16 The Beauties 

to one of the heights overlooking the timber line. From here 

one can readily see how perfectly it hides every blemish of the 

irregular contour, blending beautifully with the blue waters in 

the distance and the pale clouds floating above. Thousands of 

greenish tints are distinguishable, shading from a light yellowish 

tinge to a deep prismatic blue, while occasionally a streak of 

bright red or a touch of pure white lends a striking contrast. 

Leaving the point of vantage, however, to delve into its 

midst, breathing in the aromatic odors from the balsams and 

cedars, it is easy to note hundreds of interesting distinctions in 

size, form, color, and variety, for 

"No tree in all the grove but has its charms, 
Though each its hue peculiar." 

One should know, too, that he is buried in one of the densest 
forests of the temperate zone ; while standing proudly on every 
side are individual giants, which for size can be duplicated no- 
where else in the world, excepting by occasional specimens of 
the famous Red Woods of California. 

These sturdy monarchs have all been honored with names and 
thoroughly worthy of their names they are, without a blemish to 
mar their fame in spite of the ages through which they have lived. 
Most prominent is the Douglas Fir, or Douglas Spruce (Pseu- 
dotsuga taxifolia), the giant of the forest, growing erect as a 
plumb-line until it ends in a pyramidal crown two hundred feet 
or more above the ground. This is the most important tree of 
the state, for its product houses the people, and for the past ten 
years has insured Washington first place in lumber production in 
the United States. Some of the largest trees reach the enormous 
proportions of eight, ten, and even twelve feet in diameter, a 
single one producing material sufficient to build a palace of huge 
dimensions. 

Of great importance also is the "Red Cedar," reaching some- 
times a height of 200 feet and having a diameter in rare cases 
of over 20 feet ; yielding for the state of Washington two-thirds 
of all the shingles produced in the United States. Similar to 
the Cypress, its sweet soporific scent is everywhere conspicuous 
and always pleasing. Other trees which provide lumber and add 
grace to the Washington woods are the hemlocks, spruces, 






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State of Washington 17 

larches, and white firs, in the western part of the state ; and the 
pines and tamaracs in a number of the eastern counties. 

Many other species, of minor commercial value, are sprinkled 
throughout the forest in sufficient plentifulness to complete the 
artistic design. There are the wide-leafed maples ; the red barked 
madronas ; the pale barked quivering cottonwoods and their al- 
lies, the bitter tasting willows ; the white flowered dogwood, 
prominent throughout the forests until late in the spring, and 
occasionally found blooming in the fall; the gray barked alder 
protecting the springs and mountain streams ; the sturdy oaks, 
skirting the gravelly prairies; the long lived juniper; and the 
hardy Scotch broom ; besides various other trees and shrubs. 
Many of these are so beautiful that landscape gardeners find 
nothing more suitable for decorating lawns or lining the city 
parks and boulevards. 

Here and there are many trees, shrubs and vines that seem to 
have been destined especially to yield food for the natural 
wanderers of the forests ; for it is intended that nothing shall be 
wanted in the state of Washington. There is probably no other 
section of the world where wild berries grow in greater pro- 
fusion. Very prominent^ the wild cherry, the wild apple, the 
salmon berry, the thimble berry, the huckleberry, the salal berry, 
the Oregon grape, the blackberry, the strawberry, the wild 
currant, and the raspberry. 

Hiding within the shade of these, playing hide and seek 
with nature lovers who enjoy threading the romantic trails for 
which this section of the world is noted, is many a modest flower 
which in some sections blooms nearly the whole year round, so 
soft is the climate; while the pink petaled rhododendron, of 
bolder nature, Washington's state flower, is prominent in June 
tossing its beautiful head among the dry logs and lining the 
course of many a pretty driveway. 

Penetrating everywhere and saturating the atmosphere with 
its sweetness, may be heard the music of some rippling stream 
winding its happy way down the mountain side and playing, as 
it were, an accompaniment to the duets of soul mated song birds 
unable to restrain their songs of joy. If this is a wilderness 
then a wilderness is a paradise on earth. 

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ONE INDUSTRY IN WHICH WASHINGTON RANKS FIRST. 



CLIMATE. 

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People considering a change of residence or a vacation trip 
are always interested in the climate of the locality attracting 
their attention, for they know that absolute contentment in any 
clime, even for a brief period, is impossible without a friendly 
attitude on the part of the elements. So many regions seem to 
have been permanently blighted by conditions opposed to human 
happiness, or at least to have been forgotten in certain import- 
ant essentials when Nature was passing round her favors. 

The state of Washington, however, received a full share 
of climatic blessings as well as scenic beauties. Without ex- 
tremes either cf heat or cold its climate is as temperate as that 
of southern England — a most remarkable fact when one real- 
izes that its latitude is higher than that of the state of Maine 
and its northern boundary line corresponds to that of North 
Dakota and Minnesota. Such equability is caused chiefly by 
the protecting mountains and their dense forests together with 
the breezes blowing direct from the ocean and warmed by the 
mysterious Japan Current. 

So uniform is the general temperature, excepting in the 
mountainous regions, that the same weight of clothing is by 
many found sufficient the year round. In every section there is 
a long growing season and only a short mild winter, known on 
the west side as the "rainy season." There is never danger 
from blizzards or intense "cold waves," for these are deflected to 
the country east of the Rockies. Trees retain their green foli- 
age the year round ; in most parts there is usually some pasture 
available every month ; and in certain sections many varieties of 



20 The Beauties 

flowers will be found blooming outdoors in January. Cattle 
may be turned loose almost any day in the year and the farmer 
is saved the necessity of spending all his summer's profits in 
order that his livestock will not starve during a long cold period. 
The lowest monthly normal temperature, as deduced from a 
period of years, is for Seattle, 39° ; Spokane, 27° ; and Walla 
Walla, 33°. Contrast these with the normal temperatures of 
the following cities for the same month: Duluth, 10° ; St. Paul, 
12° ; DesMoines, 20° ; and Chicago, 24°. 

The summers may be considered ideal. A breeze is general- 
ly stirring. There are no sunstrokes, for even in the warmest 
parts the dryness of the atmosphere favors evaporation. The 
nights are everywhere cool. When millions in other climes are 
rolling about in their torturous beds, struggling for the relief 
that sleep alone can impart, the Washingtonian doffs his 
clothes, tucks himself comfortably between his cozy quilts, and 
is soon wafted into the land of nod from which he awakes in the 
morning refreshed and ready for life's battle. 

MEAN MONTHLY AND SUMMER TEMPERATURE OF WASHING- 
TON CITIES COMPARED WITH THAT OP OTHER U. S. CITIES. 

June July Aug. Sep. Sum'r 

Puget Sound District 57 62 61 57 59 

Seattle 60 64 63 58 61 

Tacoma 58 63 63 57 60 

Spokane 63 69 68 59 65 

Chicago 66 72 71 64 68 

New York City 69 74 73 66 70 

Boston 66 72 70 63 68 

Washington, D. C 73 77 75 68 73 

Philadelphia 72 76 74 68 72 

The summers, too, are particularly free from excessive rain- 
fall, such as discomforts the people in eastern cities during 
those months and causes so many disappointments ; for 80 per 
cent of our precipitation occurs between October 15th and 
May 15th, and 75 per cent between sunset and sunrise, so 
that the pleasures of the day are seldom marred. 

The heaviest fall of moisture occurs on the mountain slopes 
while the valleys, where the people make their homes, have no 
more than enough to produce a vigorous plant growth. The 
average for the year on Puget Sound is about the same as in 
Chicago and only three-fourths as much as in New York or 




SUNSET FALLS AND MOUNT INDEX, 40 MILES EAST OF EVERETT. 



22 The Beauties 

Boston. The Cascade Mountains prevent as high a precipita- 
tion in the eastern counties where it corresponds more to that 
of California. 

The normal annual precipitation during a 36 year period^ 
according to the government statistics, was for Seattle, 36.6 
inches ; Spokane, 18.8 inches ; Walla Walla, 17.7 inches ; Chi- 
cago, 33.3 inches ; New York, 44.6 inches ; Jacksonville, 53.2 
inches ; Kansas City, 37.4 inches ; Boston, 43.3 inches ; Los An- 
geles, 15.6 inches ; and San Francisco, 22.3 inches. 

MONTHLY AND SUMMER RAINFALL OF U. S. CITIES. 

June July Aug. Sep. Sum'r 

Puget Sound District 1.59 0.67 0.74 2.01 5.01 

Seattle 1.41 0.61 0.46 1.98 4.46 

Tacoma 1.97 0.69 0.66 2.79 5.91 

Spokane 1.61 0.67 0.48 1.01 3.8 

Walla Walla 1.2 0.4 0.4 0.9 2.9 

Chicago 3.52 3.62 3.02 3.06 13.22 

New York City 3.41 4.08 4.38 3.44 15.31 

Boston 3.14 3.51 4.15 3.44 14.24 

Washington, D. C 3.74 4.34 4.98 3.25 16.31 

Philadelphia 3.27 4.14 4.69 3.36 17.46 

The same forces that affect the temperature and precipita- 
tion also offer protection against the extraordinary meteoro- 
logical occurences that so often terrorize the people in more 
exposed regions. "The Weather Bureau has no authentic record 
of a real tornado anywhere in the state of Washington" says 
G. N. Salisbury, Washington Section Director of the U. S. 
Weather Bureau. Violent thunderstorms are in most parts un- 
known. Loss of life never occurs from any of these causes. 
The atmosphere is always pure and salubrious and the death 
rate is lowest of all states in the Union, while its two largest 
cities have the lowest death rate of all cities in the United States, 
having a population of 100,000 or over. 

After all has been said it were best to come and see. Spend 
a season where no dreary winters will engender melancholy 
while waiting for a lingering spring, and where no sizzling heat 
will threaten prostration. Come to a state that is as free as 
possible from the ills of unfriendly phenomena, and where one 
beautiful day passes into the next as a pleasant dream shades 
into the sweetest realities of life. 




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YACHTING ON PUGET SOUND. 




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One glorious expanse of calm picturesque water is the great 
inland sea known as Puget Sound, extending from the Strait of 
Juan de Fuca far into the interior of the state of Washington. 
If the Strait mentioned, together with Hood Canal arid a por- 
tion of the Strait of Georgia are included, and they will be in 
this article, nearly 2,000 square miles of mirror like surface are 
encompassed within the green wooded shore lines of as many 
lineal miles. With sinuous arms, these waters reach in every 
direction, reflecting in their depths sometimes the lofty moun- 
tains, at other times gardens and farms of unusual attractive- 
ness, and again the modern cities located upon the shores. 

Almost everywhere have been sprinkled pretty emerald isles 
beckoning with all the lure of nature, while tree bedecked penin- 
sulas shelter hundreds of cuddling coves. Near the dividing 
shore line the "tide lands" reach out from the sunny beaches and 
supply a sort of neutral ground, enjoyed now by the clam 
diggers or oyster culturists and again claimed by the envelop- 
ing waters. 

Rising gently from the water's edge broad areas of fertile 
lands, which have been released from their forest burdens, are 
now devoted to the pursuits of husbandry and yield liberally 
to feed the multitudes dwelling in the neighboring large cities. 
Here and there patches of virgin growth in primeval splendor 
may still be seen, but usually, excepting in the Hood Canal 
region, the forests have been forced back to the foot hills, leav- 
ing in their wake the so-called logged-off areas which are in turn 
rapidly giving away to meadows and orchards. Further back 



26 



The Beauties 



to the east and west the mountains stand guard, while innumer- 
able streams with incalculable water power pierce their sides, 
transect the lower levels, and pour the sweets of the mountainous 
regions out into the salts of the deep. 

Occasionally rocky bluffs or promontories stand boldly out 
of the water, and command the view for miles in every 
direction. Pictures are everywhere presented which repro- 
duced on canvass would insure the immortality of any artist. 
Altogether the region presents the likeness of one vast kingly 
garden where every plant that will grow is nurtured and all 
wonders combine to enchant the visitor. 

This beauteous sea is not locked away behind impenetrable 
bulwarks of mountain walls, like many of nature's wonders, but 
is at the very door of the people and enjoyed by them while 
- g om g about 

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I tasks. Nearly a 
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beings look out 
upon its placid 
waters and re- 
joice at their 
good fortune 
in being per- 
mitted to play, 
as it were, up- 
summer time pleasures. on its banks, 

and to feel the tender caresses of the soft whispering breezes 
that make the region such a pleasure ground in summer, and a 
haven in winter — and there is room for ten times as many to 
make their homes where these same joys may be experienced. 

Not in the lifetime of an individual, nor even in the period 
required for the most extravagant display of human skill, was 
this great pleasure resort created. Ages elapsed, say geologists, 
between the rising of the waters that "drowned" the rivers once 
flowing where now the Sound reposes and the advent of the 
glaciers which deposited the fertile sediment to nourish the 
luxuriant growth appearing on every hand. 





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VIEWS NEAR THE EASTERN SHORES OF PUGET SOUND. 



State of Washington 29 

IDEAL FOR YACHTING AND CRUISING. 
One can pass the entire summer on Puget Sound without see- 
ing a bit of rough weather. The largest ocean liners ride here 
safe from the storms that pound sometimes against the outer 
coast line; for its waters compose one great harbor, protected 
by the forests and mountains. One may see "Uncle Sam's" 
powerful fighting machines almost any day steaming toward 
Bremerton, one of the U. S. Naval Stations, where the largest 
dry dock owned by the U. S. Government is located. 

But this peaceful body of water is not for the big vessels 
alone. It could not have been improved if created especially for 
the yacht, the motor launch, the row boat and even the venture- 
some canoe. Upon its surface is held many a local speed con- 
test, and the annual power boat race is run from Ketchikan, 
Alaska, to Seattle. Conditions here are ideal for the college 
regatta and for the difficult feats of the hydroplane. During 
festive days many important events are pulled off, while the 
happy spectators, dressed in holiday attire, are crowded along 
the water's edge or perched on the ridges and house tops above. 

For cruising, no waters in the world offer such advantages — 
never threatened by tempests and always within reach of some 
of nature's most glorious beauty spots. Landing places suitable 
for camps are easily found, from which short inland excursions 
may be made through alpine meadows by winding trails to the 
summit of some mountain or to the shores of some peaceful lake. 

Those who are not fortunate enough to have their own craft 
are not necessarily deprived of enjoying these waters ; for regu- 
lar passenger steamers, of ample capacity and stately appear- 
ance make regular trips throughout the year from every city on 
its shores to nearly every other part of the Sound ; while special 
summer time excursions are made from the metropolitan cen- 
ters to all the principal points of interest on Puget Sound and 
to the cities of British Columbia and Alaska. 

HOOD CANAL. 

The waters that put one in closest touch with the mountains 
are in the narrow channel, or fiord, known as Hood Canal, ex- 
tending southwesterly and bending back into the heart of the 




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State of Washington 31 

Kitsap Peninsula. Tourists riding over these waters for the 
first time are elated with the splendors, and the frequent visitor 
never tires of the inspiring scenes that everywhere greet the 
eye. The eastern shores reveal the neat farms and settle- 
ments in Kitsap and Mason counties, while the western edge 
is at the very foot of the Olympic range, whose white serrated 
ridges are continually visible from the deck of a passing 
steamer. Easily distinguishable also are the deep canyons 
cut by the several main streams working their way to- 
wards the canal, plunging over rocky cliffs and creating falls 
of exquisite beauty. The Little and Big Quilcene, the Dusewal- 
lips, the Duckabush, the Hamma Hamma, and the Lilliwago, are 
some of the mountain streams whose canyons with rugged trails 
are familiar to those making frequent pilgrimages thither. 

Other attractive places are Lake Cushman, a mountain 
summer resort reached from Hoodsport, and the rich Skokomish 
valley containing the Indian reservation of the same name. At 
Union City one may take the stage over a well traveled road 
through groves and vales to Shelton, county seat of Mason 
county, where regular steamers connect with all Puget Sound 
points — thus encircling the Kitsap Peninsula. 

OTHER TRIPS. 

Equally delightful are the little voyages over the main 
traveled waters of the Sound from Seattle or Tacoma to Olym- 
pia and Shelton, to Bremerton, Everett, Bellingham, Anacortes, 
Port Townsend, and Port Angeles ; also out to the ocean or 
through the San Juan Islands to Victoria and Vancouver in 
British Columbia. The mountains are always in sight although 
not so close as on the Canal trip, and there passes a continual 
procession of groves, hills, pebbly beaches, rocky palisades, gar- 
dens, orchards, green meadows, and summer homes. 

Entrancing is the view at the sun's rising or setting when a 
myriad shades of reddish and bluish tints are painted on the 
hovering clouds, which assume various grotesque shapes above 
the shimmering waters ; and even at night time when threading 
the channel marked by the twinkling beacon lights, or entering 



32 The Beauties 

the harbor of a city resplendent with thousands of glittering in- 
candescents. 

COMMERCE. 

Besides scenes that appeal chiefly to the esthetic are many 
that suggest the state's commercial importance, for these waters 
produce many million dollars worth of fish each year, and the 
neighboring shores have the largest saw mills in the world, sup- 
plying a big share of the 4,000,000,000 feet of lumber which is 
Washington's annual contribution and insures her first place in 
the Union. Out from Bellingham and Anacortes may be observed 
the rare spectacle of huge fish traps being raised, with sometimes 
50,000 Puget Sound salmon wiggling within their meshes, soon 
to be preserved in the largest canneries of the world and shipped 
to all corners of the globe. Big ocean liners heavily laden are 
seen in the harbors or met upon the waters, carrying away car- 
goes of manufactured products which for the entire state ap- 
proaches the stupenduous sum of $300,000,000 yearly. 

THE EAST SHORES. 

The loudest buzz of commercialism is to be heard on the east 
shores, where fertile valleys and sightly plateaus checkered with 
farms and gardens stretch away to the foot hills of the Cascade 
Mountains, comprising five of the most densely populated coun- 
ties in the state. Here, too, are four of Washington's five largest 
cities, Seattle, Tacoma, Everett and Bellingham, each the center 
of a rich territory supporting numerous smaller cities. At the 
southern limit is Olympia, the state capital. 

Without irrigation the region yields liberally of fruits, ber- 
ries, vegetables, hay, oats, dairy and poultry products, which 
go to support those engaged in the lumbering, fishing, ship 
building, mining, and other manufacturing industries, and the 
diversified business pursuits. 

Eight transcontinental railroads operate trains, an almost 
unbroken string of electric railways render good local service, 
while excellent roads, including the Pacific Highway, crisscross 
the section and unite the people with indestructible bonds of 
friendship and mutual interests. 




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State of Washington 33 

A number of lakes beautify this region, as well as the other 
parts of the Puget Sound country. The largest is Lake Wash- 
ington, one of the grandest in the west, twenty miles in length, 
forming the eastern boundary to Seattle, providing sites 
for country homes and parks, and embellishing its boulevard 
system. Near Bellingham is Lake Whatcom, of similar import- 
ance to that city. Lake Stevens is handy to Everett, and a num- 
ber of smaller ones are tributary to Tacoma. 

THE ISLANDS. 

Puget Sound would not be nearly so interesting without the 
many enchanting isles dotting its surface from Olympia to 
Blaine and within easy reach of the cities located upon its 
shores. Some are hidden within partially concealed bays and 
others appear like portions of the mainland until circumnavi- 
gation has proved their seclusion. Although a few have suffi- 
cient area and commercial importance to form entire counties, 
the larger number are of rather small compass, and a few are 
tiny gems suitable only for private resorts away from the busy 
cities. Nearly all are clothed in evergreen trees, bespangled 
with flowers and ferns, and girdled with gravelly beaches sug- 
gesting the real charms of camp life. 

SAN JUAN GROUP. 

Travelers agree that no islands anywhere are more beautiful 
than the San Juan group, blocking the entrance to the Straits 
of Georgia, rivaling as they do the Thousand Isles of the St. 
Lawrence or the classical Grecian Archipelago. There are 
172 of them, including 122 with names suggesting their own 
peculiarities and others known chiefly by their location and shown 
only on the mariner's chart. The largest are San Juan, Orcas 
and Lopez. Apart from them but closer to the mainland are 
Lummi, Guemes, and Cypress, similar in formation and of like 
attractiveness. They are approachable with almost any kind of 
craft, no great distances separate them, and often there is just 
passage for a steamer. They offer rare opportunity for playing 
hide and seek on the water, a game which in days gone by men 




AMONG THE SAN JUAN ISLANDS. 
Photos by J. A. McCormick. 



State of Washington 35 

played in earnest ; for the smuggler stealing away from the inter- 
national boundary line found within their shady inlets havens of 
safety from the unfriendly eye of "Uncle Sam's" revenue cutter. 

And only to think, these islands were nearly lost to us ! 
Had it not been for the wise decision of William I. of Germany in 
1871, the Union Jack instead of the beloved Stars and Stripes 
might today be floating over them. The two distinct camps 
on San Juan Island where the British "Red Coats" and 
the American "Blues" waited and watched from 1860 to 1872, 
are still protected as points of interest ; the former near Roche 
Harbor, and the latter near Friday Harbor, the county seat. 

The usual way to reach them is by steamer from Seattle, 
Bellingham or Anacortes. The boat stops at all the main towns 
including Friday Harbor, where the University Marine Sta- 
tion and two large salmon canneries are located ; Roche Harbor, 
where one of the largest lime kilns is prospering ; and Deer Har- 
bor, West Sound, East Sound, Rosario, Olga, and Doebay, at- 
tractive as summer resorts. 

Many people spend their summers among these isles. The 
tourist with limited time should, besides visiting the historic 
sites on San Juan, make a trip to Mount Constitution on Orcas 
Island. Two good wagon roads lead all the way to the top, the 
one from East Sound and the other from Olga. A pleasant day's 
outing is enjoyed by going up one way and returning by the 
other. Its altitude, 2,408 feet, is nothing compared with the 
peaks in the Cascades. Nevertheless, few places offer more com- 
prehensive outlooks. On the descent it will be difficult for the 
"wise" to resist the temptation to pass through Rosario, the 
beautiful country estate belonging to Robert Moran, a retired 
Seattle ship builder, who has harnessed the water power from the 
lakes lying a few hundred feet above and equipped a modern 
mansion with all that man can desire or money and art can sup- 
ply. Who would guess that a great pipe organ might be heard 
in this seemingly remote spot in the universe, bursting out in 
unexcelled magnificence, rendering the masterpieces of the g>eat 
composers. 



36 The Beauties 



WHIDBY ISLAND. 



Extending about fifty miles in front of Skagit and Snohom- 
ish counties, midway in the Sound where the views of the Cas- 
cades and the Olympics are unobstructed, is Whidby Island, the 
second largest island in the United States proper and sometimes 
called "The Long Island of Puget Sound." With Camano Is- 
land on the east and two other very small ones it constitutes an 
independent county. Having much water front and its western 
shore facing the straits where direct breezes from the ocean are 
felt, it draws many campers from the cities. There are no 
mountains to climb, although a number of eminences offer views 
of the distant landscape. 

The largest improvement has been near the southern extrem- 
ity and between Coupeville and the northern limits, where the 
world's record for wheat production per acre was made. A 
beautiful road decorated with rhododendrons leads from Fort 
Casey to Deception Pass separating it from Fidalgo Island on 
the north, which is connected with the mainland by a first class 
highway. Near Coupeville is Still Park, where summer Chau- 
tauquas are held and many campers congregate. 

OTHER ISLANDS. 

A few minutes' ride out of Seattle is Bainbridge Island, hav- 
ing forty miles of water front lined with summer homes or suit- 
able for camping sites. Tributary to both Seattle and Tacoma 
are Vashon and Maury Islands, practically one, comprising some 
twenty-three thousand acres, which yield for these cities berries, 
fruits, vegetables, and flowers, and offer some of the most de- 
lightful sites for homes along their fifty miles of attractive shore 
line. 

Fox, Anderson, and McNeils Islands are integral parts of 
the Bay Island country, a rich district tributary to Tacoma and 
offering unlimited opportunities for campers who are always 
welcomed by the hospitable ranchers. Hartstine Island main- 
tains one of the largest vineyards in the west, yielding delicious 
grapes which find their way to distant eastern markets. Numer- 
ous smaller islands are scattered about the Sound and insure 
pleasant retreats for all that love the simple life. 




WHAT YOU WILL SEE IN THE OLYMPICS. 



38 The Beauties 



OLYMPIC PENINSULA. 



Lying between Hood Canal and the Pacific Ocean and ex- 
tending from the Strait of Juan de Fuca southward toward the 
Chehalis river valley is the vast Olympic Peninsula, whose re- 
sources and wonders are probably less known than almost any 
other section of the world. The central portion constitutes one 
great forest reserve within which is the Olympic National Monu- 
ment set apart by the government for the enjoyment of nature 
lovers. The population is distributed among the cities and towns 
situated on the level lands skirting the waterfront. This Monu- 
ment contains the most rugged mountains, the deepest canyons, 
the most turbulent rivers and the thickest forests in the state. 

The Peninsula is now reached both by steamer and automo- 
bile. Highways lead well up into the foothills from the cities 
of Port Angeles, Sequim, Port Townsend, Quilcene, Shelton, 
Aberdeen, Hoquiam, and Hood Canal points, and paissable 
trails thread their way to the summits beyond. It is easy to 
surprise both deer and elk, confident of safety from the approach 
of man. Numerous flowering parks display seas of gorgeous 
colors which make the region famous for its beauty. 

It also serves as a huge treasure chest. Billions of feet of 
choicest timber remain uncut ; valuable ore veins and a vast lake 
of petroleum are buried within its depths ; land well suited for 
agriculture girdles the entire peninsula ; and the neighboring 
waters yield liberal quantities of fish. 

Certain beauty spots in the mountains have been supple- 
mented with the conveniences and luxuries of modern invention. 
Among these are Sol Due Springs, at the headwaters of the Sol 
Due river, where a little palace has been lifted into the moun- 
tains, Government Hot Springs, and Lake Crescent, all reached 
from Port Angeles ; Lake Cushman, approached from Hoods- 
port; and Lake Quiniault, north of Grays Harbor. A visit to 
any of these resorts or any part of the peninsula will satisfy 
the most extravagant expectations of tourist and mountaineer. 




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Everybody in the state of Washington knows about the 
"Harbor Country," the only part of the state where almost 
simultaneously one may enjoy the rare combination of the un- 
obstructed ocean, an inland sea, and trout streams lined with 
giant firs and cedars, which all but encroach upon the dominions 
of the waters. Here the oyster, the clam and the crab seemingly 
try to outdo one another and the mighty forest, in yielding 
splendid profits to the people, who lend every encouragement to 
the remarkable competition. 

Thousands from the larger cities hie themselves to this sec- 
tion, at least once during the summer, to feast their eyes upon 
another variety of scenery, to enjoy its peculiar attractions, and 
experience again the pleasure of riding through a valley that 
appeals alike to the Pullman passenger and to the automobilist ; 
for it is human nature to love a change, even if one's home en- 
vironment approaches perfection itself. 

There are two important salt water harbors in southwest 
Washington, the more northerly one in Chehalis county, and 
named Grays Harbor after the great explorer who discovered 
it in 1792, and the southern one in Pacific county bearing an 
Indian name, Willapa Bay. They are separated by only a 
few miles of territory, 'which is served by no railroad other than 
a short logging road. Regular traffic is usually around by Cen- 
tralia, excepting that during the summer months auto stages 
traverse the beach from Cohasset to Tokeland ; for the beach 
here is level and broad, and the sands packed so firm, when the 
tide has receded, that it is used as a highway, and even as a race 
track for automobiles and motorcycles. This is true not only 




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42 The Beauties 

of the portion lying between the two harbors but also of the 
twenty-five miles known as "North Beach" extending from 
Willapa Bay to the mouth of the Columbia. 

The entire region is fraught with charms that can be dupli- 
cated nowhere else. Pacific, Moclips and Cohasset beaches are 
patronized especially by people from the Sound cities and from 
southwest Washington. North Beach to the south of Willapa 
Bay attracts as well crowds from Portland and other Oregon 
cities. On Sundays or at week ends special excursions are nu- 
merous, when great crowds avail themselves of the opportunity 
of visiting the seashore. 

The modes of amusement are numerous. Wading and bath- 
ing in the surf or burrowing in the warm sands ; hunting for 

shells, agates, and 
Indian relics ; row- 
ing, and trolling for 
salmon ; or searching 
for the rare floral 
specimens abounding 
in the neighboring 
woods occupy the 
time of many. 
point grenville. Others enjoy visit- 

ing the canneries, observing the motor races, or watching the 
sailing vessels, with canvas inflated, gliding quietly into the 
harbor or, heavily laden, being dragged out across the bar by 
some fretful yet powerful tug boat. Then there are the clam 
bakes and, at the end of the day, the big bonfires, the beach 
parties and the story telling, after which one is lulled into sweet 
slumber by the unceasing roar of the ocean surf. 

So fascinating is this region that its extensive ocean beach 
will undoubtedly in "time be ornate with one continuous array 
of summer resorts reaching from Ilwaco on Baker's Bay, at the 
mouth of the Columbia, to Neah Bay at the entrance to the 
Straits, and interrupted only by the narrow gaps marking the 
entrances to the two harbors. Every manner of dwelling is 
provided for those who wish to stay several weeks. Cottages 




State of Washington 43 

may be rented, camping sites engaged, or board obtained at one 
of the homelike hotels looking out upon the sea. 

GRAYS HARBOR. 
To reach Grays Harbor, unless approaching from the 
ocean, means a trip through the wide fertile valley of the Che- 
halis river, either by auto or over one of the three transconti- 
nental railroads that serve it. The entire journey presents a 
panorama of pretty landscapes. The stream itself is conspicu- 
ous, tracing the valley's boundary on one side and again on 
the other, as if choosing the most convenient course to the sea. 
Sometimes it disappears from view, but its presence is still 
marked by clumps of willows and cottonwoods protecting its 
banks, and again by some rustic bridge where the highway 
crosses. 




SCENE ON LOWER GRAYS HARBOR. 



More generously the beauties unfold as the valley widens 
and the harbor is neared. Quaint towns are seen, including 
Oakville, noted for large shipments of cascara bark ; Elma, an 
industrial center; and Montesano, the county seat and head of 
river navigation. Green meadows, wooded slopes, and culti- 
vated farms on both sides of the river absorb the attention until 
Cosmopolis, Aberdeen, and Hoquiam, close by the harbor, are 
reached. These cities have experienced a remarkable growth 
within the past fourteen years. Aberdeen and Hoquiam have 
now a combined population of 29,000 in place of 6,355, the 
census returns of 1900. Thoroughly cosmopolitan, they contain 
the homes of some of the wealthiest men in the state. 




n 



SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON VIEWS. 



State of Washington 45 

Such development has been due largely to the importance 
of the lumber industry which in this section of the state has 
assumed large proportions. The ravenous mills, the capacious 
yards, and the huge vessels loading for foreign ports are com- 
mon sights within the cities. Farther away in the logging 
camps the agility of the lumberjack is exhibited as he lays low 
the giants of the forest and trims the logs ready for the mills. 

The harbor may be most thoroughly appreciated by taking 
a ride upon its waters. Regular steamers make the round trip 
each day, stopping at many points of interest, both in the north 
and the south bay, including the North Jetty under construc- 
tion by the United States government, Westport, where the 
life saving station and the wireless telegraph station are located, 
and Bay City, one of the largest whaling stations in the north- 
west. On the same trip the clam and crab fisheries may be 
seen. At the week end it is pleasant to get off at Westport and 
visit Cohasset Beach, there to enjoy the modern social pastimes 
that engage the evenings of the summer dwellers. 

Pacific Beach, Moclips, and a number of other ocean resorts 
near the terminus of the Northern Pacific, also deserve visits ; 
while those desiring more strenuous exercise can make profitable 
excursions into the wild Olympic region, exploring the forested 
hills, visiting the oil prospects, or hunting and fishing. 

Splendid highways lead in different directions. In Chehalis 
county alone are 325 miles of gravel roads, every part of which 
passes near interesting scenes. One road extends to the south 
of the harbor and another to the beach resorts at the north. 
The Olympic Highway, one of the state primary highways- 
leads east to the Sound country, and northward up the Hump- 
tulips Valley, through the big timber to Lake Quiniault, located 
in the midst of grand solitude on the edge of the Quiniault In- 
dian Reservation, making this lake a handy resort for the people 
living near Grays Harbor. Those who take the trip should 
plan their return so as to include a ride down the Quiniault 
River in Indian canoes. The Mountaineers who returned this 
way from Mount Olympus in 1913, pronounced it the best part 
of the entire outing : 



46 



The Beauties 



"The trip down the Quiniault river with its manifold beauties 
and experiences beggars description — the swift current, the 
whirling eddies, the deep, dark-green water, trout leaping into 
the air to catch the flying insects, the banks clothed with mag- 
nificent forests, log jams through which or under which we 
passed, animated branches marking the rhythmic motion of the 
current, the floating canoes gliding into the deeper, darker 
water to seek the current that hurried them on and ever on to 
the ocean. The Indians skillfully guided the little craft through 
the dangerous places, then settled back to rest until the next 
test of skill or strength was necessary, in the meantime relating 
bits of history or legends which explained names or some natural 
phenomenon. The boom of the surf announced the end of the 
journey. As the Mountaineers left the canoes on the beach at 
Taholah, it was agreed that the trip down the Quiniault marked 
the red-letter day of the 1913 outing." 

WILLAPA BAY. 
The water area of this bay is 100 square miles, com- 
posed of two sections, one extending southward and separated 

from the ocean by a long nar- 
row peninsula, nowhere more 
than two miles in width, and 
the other reaching eastward 
to South Bend and Raymond. 
Into it flows Willapa river, 
besides other short but swift 
mountain streams teeming 
with trout and other game 
fish. The bar is about a mile 
wide and the waters covering 
it 28!/2 feet deep at low tide, 
thus enabling sea-going ves- 
sels to cross without the aid 
of tugs — a great advantage 
to ocean liners and big lum- 
ber schooners, which may be 
seen almost any day either lying at the docks or loaded to the 
gunwale passing out to sea. 

The southern arm approaches within three miles of the Co- 
lumbia River. People in Pacific County say that Uncle Sam 




TWO PATRIARCHS— ONE 65 FEET 
IN CIRCUMFERENCE. 




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48 The Beauties 

plans to dig a canal through this narrow strip so that vessels 
may enter the river by way of Willapa Bay and avoid the Co- 
lumbia bar, kept open by jetties built at enormous expense. 

The cities of Raymond and South Bend are other examples 
of what lumbering and fishing have done for Washington mu- 
nicipalities. Where a few years ago was nothing but a wilder- 
ness, known only to the Indians or an occasional fisherman, are 
now busy marts with extensive waterfront factory sites. Pretty 
roads start from these cities and wind along the harbor front 
or penetrate the interior. Excursions by water may be made 
to Bay Center and Tokeland, summer resorts and fishing sta- 
tions. Crab and clam fisheries and the oyster beds may be seen 
here to advantage, Tokeland being the place where eastern 
oysters were first transplanted for mercantile purposes. 

South Bend and Raymond are also starting points for the 
North Beach ocean resorts. On this trip one gets a full view 
of the bay, and the ocean surf tumbling over the bar. At 
Nahcotta, a pretty oyster village, all passengers are trans- 
ferred to the O.-W. R. & N. train bound for Ilwaco and Megler, 
whence regular steamers cross to Astoria. This train makes 
frequent stops, permitting close scrutiny of the attractive 
summer cottages that face the boundless ocean constantly 
visible on the right. 

Located at almost the southern extremity of the peninsula 
is the quaint town of Ilwaco, overlooking the Columbia bar. 
Near by are the most extensive cranberry marshes in the state. 
Another attraction is "North Head," most southwesterly point 
in the state of Washington, where an unobstructed view of the 
ocean is obtained. From this point may be seen the waters of 
the Columbia mixing with the ocean, "Tillamook Head" in 
Oregon, the light house, the life-saving station, Fort Canby, 
the wireless station, and the "Seal Rocks," where hundreds of 
sea lions are usually sunning themselves. 

Instead of returning by the same route, the Columbia River 
may be chosen to Kalama, whence the Sound Country may be 
quickly reached by the Pacific Highway or by rail. Every 
tourist should make at least one visit to the Harbor Country 
and see the ocean from the southwest corner of the state. 




MOUNT RAINIER REFLECTED IN MIRROR LAKE 
"Owning no mightier but the King of kings" 

Copyright by Curtis & Miller 




tfOUNT RAINIER. NATIONAL PARK. 

fc> What vastness ana sublimity' 

A/Vere spread Leiore our ea^r^ze! 
What wilcLaricLvariecL scenery! 
JVhat pictures ror the poets lays ' 




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One day, late in summer, I was sitting upon a commanding 
promontory nearly 7,000 feet in altitude, entranced by a pano- 
ramic view most wonderful to behold. The sky was clear, the 
sun's warm rays were unobstructed, and the air I breathed pure 
as the nectar of heaven. Only five hours before I had left the 
city of Tacoma and a little earlier Seattle — two great cities 
throbbing with the activities of nearly a half million people en- 
gaged in manufacturing and mercantile pursuits. 

Just beyond the foothills visible towards the west were the 
green valleys in which these metropolitan centers lay — the near- 
est only forty miles distant by an air line, close to the waters of 
of Puget Sound. Yet here, almost in sight of them, I was en- 
joying a quietude known only to the haunts of nature. More 
than seven thousand feet above me towered the majestic dome 
of the second highest pinnacle in the United State, reserving 
observation to the north until its summit should be reached, 
while far toward the east and the south extended range 
upon range of mountain peaks, like an army of giants gathered 
around their chief. Here and there among them appeared the 
sub-chiefs, Adams and St. Helens in Washington ; and Hood, 
Jefferson, and the Three Sisters, far beyond, in Oregon. Be- 
tween their serrated ranks darker shadows marked the deep 
canyons where grows some of the choicest timber in the state. 

Near by crawled the huge glacial bodies gnawing their way 
down the mountain side and splitting its surface into rugged 
ridges. Between them and below were spread the meadowed al- 
pine parks or abandoned cirques — veritable fairylands — which 
had been carved out by these superhuman agencies eons before. 
—3 



50 The Beauties 

Barely distinguishable was the road by which I had made 
the circuitous ascent, bending back and forth across the face 
of an apparently perpendicular wall, while the glacial streams 
glittering in the sunshine, resembled huge serpents lying in the 
profound hollows formed by the extending hills. 

The hours spent in reaching this favored point were of them- 
selves worth the effort. Either rail or automobile may be chosen 
to Ashford where each train is met by an auto stage. Leaving 
Tacoma, the highway threads a picturesque gravelly prairie 
for thirty miles, ascends the beautiful canyon road, crosses the 
Ohop Valley, leads to the brink of the Nisqually Canyon a 
thousand feet deep, plunges through dense virgin forests, 
reaches Longmire, and zigzags to the snout of the Nisqually 
Glacier, whence the ascent to the Camp of the Clouds may be 
continued afoot, on horseback, or by horse stage. 

This region was only recently set aside as a National Park. 
Perhaps no other area in the world brings so many and such 
varied natural wonders to the very doors of two great cities. 
It contains a total of 207,360 acres, or 324 square miles, of 
which 100 square miles is occupied by Mount Rainier (or Mt. 
Tacoma), king of mountains, rising apparently directly from 
sea level, and visible from almost every point in the state. 

No grander expression of Nature's sculptural art exists 
than this mighty pinnacle, 14,408 feet in altitude, whose glacial 
area, no less than 45 square miles in extent, exceeds that of any 
other peak in the United States. One of the most interesting 
glaciers is Carbon on the north slope, reaching down to a 
lower elevation than any other ; the most readily reached 
is the Nisqually, five miles in length ; and the largest is the 
White or Emmon's. Other primary glaciers are the Cowlitz, 
Ingraham, Winthrop, North and South Mowich, Puyallup, 
North and South Tahoma, and the Kautz. The most important 
secondary glaciers are Van Trump, Frying-Pan, Stevens, Para- 
dise, and Interglacier. 

The summit may be reached by five different routes. These 
are the Paradise Valley, Indian Henry's, the Kautz Glacier, 
Ptarmigan Ridge, and Emmon's or the White Glacier route. 



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IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK. 



52 The Beauties 

The Paradise Valley (known also as the "Gibraltar") route, on 
the south side, is by far the most popular, for it is well provided 
with hotel accommodations, and both the government road and 
Paradise trail lead right up to the Camp of the Clouds, at the 
mountain's foot. It is usual to leave this tented village at mid- 
night, arriving at Muir Camp (10,062 feet elevation) at about 
5 a. m., and Columbia Crest, the highest point on the moun- 
tain, at about 11 a. m. From this celestial height one may see 
more than a hundred miles in every direction, far away to the 
ocean on the west and into the great Inland Empire on the east. 
The snow-capped peaks already noted are seen toward the 
south, Mount Olympus to the northwest, and Baker, Shuksan, 
Stuart, and Glacier Peak to the north ; while the Mother, the 
Sluiskin, the Sourdough Mountains, and the Tatoosh Range 
near by seem like mere foothills, between eight and nine thou- 
sand feet below. No grander or more inspiring view may be 
observed anywhere in the world. 

Scaling the peak, however, is a feat undertaken by only a 
few, and always with the aid of an experienced guide. The 
largest measure of real joy is found in the alpine "parks." The 
best known and most frequented is along the Paradise River. 
Tributary to it and reached from Longmire, are Indian 
Henry's, Van Trump, Cowlitz and Magnetic Parks. Others 
requiring more time to visit are Summerland, one of the largest 
and most beautiful, Elysian Fields, and Morain, Saint Andrews 
and Grand Parks. 

Surrounded by rugged peaks and snow fields these natural 
amphitheaters present a pleasing contrast. Scarcely any un- 
derbrush exists in them but many beautiful flowers, shrubs, and 
trees abound ; three hundred distinct plants are said to exist ; 
pretty lakelets gem their surface ; and all are drained by 
trickling streamlets or cut by raging rivers producing water- 
falls of rare beauty as they go tumbling from the melting 
glaciers to the sea. Excellent trails, built by the government, 
lead to every point of interest and extend clear around the 
mountain. Camping places are plentiful or accommodations 
may be obtained at comfortable hotels. 






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THE COLUMBIA RIV&R 

L/r lose tm^seli in. the cojituruoxxs woods 




This wonderful and majestic river whose history is en- 
hanced with legend, offers the exploring tourist or curious sight- 
seer unusual opportunities to indulge his unbounded imagina- 
tion and to satisfy his desire for the spectacular in nature. 
Upon its banks were enacted events of greatest importance in 
northwest history, while interwoven with the incontrovertible 
happenings is many a fascinating Indian story and song. Over- 
looking its waters were the first settlements of the Pacific north- 
west, upon whose sites are now built, within easy hearing of its 
persistent dashings, some of the proudest and most prosperous 
cities of the country. 

One of the largest rivers on the American continent, with 
many important tributaries, it drains a territory equal to five 
times the area of the state of Washington. By a series of 
cataracts, falls, cascades, and bold turns, it flows nearly 1,400 
miles with a total drop of 2,500 feet, before finally delivering 
the waters gathered from many sources to the great Pacific 
ocean. 

Like other great rivers, some portions have needed vast 
expenditures to increase its value as a navigable stream. Near 
Stevenson the government has built locks at a cost of several 
million dollars, enabling large vessels to reach The Dalles, at 
present the head of navigation. At Celilo, two hundred miles 
from its mouth, where, in twelve miles distance, the river falls 
eighty-one feet at low tide, other locks are being constructed. 
When these are completed, merchant vessels can go direct from 



State of Washington 55 

the sea as far as Priest Rapids, a distance of over four hundred 
miles. As many miles additional are navigable, but broken in 
places by rapids and falls. 

Important as this river is from a commercial and geo- 
graphic standpoint, the greatest interest by far centers in the 
phenomena that are of its own creation, visible every mile from 
its mouth to its source. A journey upon its surface rivals one 
along the historic Rhine, the picturesque Hudson, or the beauti- 
ful St. Lawrence. The panorama includes besides the wilder 
grandeurs, economic scenes suggesting the fecundity of the 
earth and the industry of the husbandman. To enumerate and 
describe these ever so briefly would require an entire volume. 
This short chapter is a suggestion only that "By reason of 



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INDIAN CANOE RACE. 

scenic grandeur, absorbing interest of physical features, the 
majesty and mystery of its flow through some of the wildest as 
well as some of the most beautiful regions of the globe, and at 
the last by the peculiar grandeur of its entrance into the greatest 
of the oceans, this "Achilles of Rivers' attracts alike historian, 
scientist, poet, statesman, and lover of nature." 

In many places the natural appearances are the same now 
as when Gray, Lewis and Clarke, the Astorians and the North- 
west and Hudson's Bay Company men first viewed its banks, with 
the exception that the shores have in places been denuded of their 
largest timber and either a younger growth has inherited the 
dominion or portions have been claimed for the agriculturist. 

Here and there may be seen the little fisherman craft, 
"chugging" away from their moorings in the early dawn and 
returning at the setting of the sun heavily laden with the famous 
Columbia river salmon that feed thousands throughout the 




. .pacific Ocean from ' 
Cape Disappointment Light' 



ALONG THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 



State of Washington 57 

world. On sandbars or sand islands, of which there are many 
in the lower part of the river, the "purse seiners" are conspicu- 
ous and the horses dragging the nets strangled with the prod- 
ucts of the deep. In the deeper waters close to the shore, but 
far from the sea, are the fish wheels whirling by the force of the 
same waters that conceal the treasures being sought. 

Cities appear at frequent intervals, both on the Washing- 
ton side and in Oregon. Before the entrance to the Snake River 
is reached, one will have passed Ilwaco, Cathlamet, Kalama, 
Vancouver, Camas, Washougal, Stevenson, White Salmon, and 
Wallula on the Washington side, besides many important cities 
on the Oregon shores : namely, Astoria, the site of the first set- 
tlement on the Columbia ; Portland, the largest city in Oregon, 
near the mouth of the Willamette ; and The Dalles, for many 
years the head of navigation. Eennewick and Pasco are located 
just beyond the mouth of the Snake River, ready to derive 
full benefit from the improved navigation conditions of the 
future. Between these larger towns is many a tiny hamlet, 
while isolated farms and orchards surrounding pretty dwellings 
slope gently towards the river and tend to make the traveler 
dissatisfied with his own home. 

At times is visible a beautiful waterfall, a palisade of won- 
derful basalt, and occasionally some island draped with verdure 
of many tints. Further away a murmuring brook or crystal 
streamlet may be heard hurrying down a rocky hillside or wind- 
ing between towering cliffs, adding its share to the tuneful 
sound of the powerful orchestra that seems everywhere to be 
heard. Constantly shifting color and shade attract the eye and 
tones of varying quality please the ear. 

When the mouth of the Cowlitz is neared there appear, 
stretching toward the north, broad areas where man has mingled 
his skill with Nature's works. Green fields, sometimes fringed 
with willows, near the waterfront, and dotted with orchards, farm 
houses, and dairies, are visible as far as the eye can see. 
These evidences of man's encroachments are noted all the 
way to Vancouver (and beyond), at which city, the oldest in 
the state, a tourist should linger long enough to appreciate the 




THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY. 



State of Washington 59 

region which arrested the attention of our earliest settlers and 
inspired the beginning of the first city in Washington. A 
bridge, costing nearly two million dollars, will soon connect it 
with the beautiful city of Portland. 

Cultivated lands are seen on either side as the river is 
ascended, until the mountainous region is reached and the roar 
of the cascades is distinctly heard. These cascades, ac- 
cording to Indian lore, were created by the falling of the 
"Bridge of the Gods," which once extended from shore to shore 
and formed the great highway connecting the mountains on 
the north and their extension to the south, while beneath a 
mighty river peacefully pursued its course to the sea. The per- 
pendicular buttresses on either hand, the forest areas that 
apparently fell from above, trees growing out of the water, 
petrified logs up in the reddish cliffs within the vicinity of Stev- 
enson, and many other freaks of nature all seem to strengthen 
the evidence on which this story is based. 

Throughout the mountainous region are wonderful examples 
of Nature's diverse skill. Among the most striking are Castle 
Rock, or Wehatpolitan's gravestone, a great basaltic rock 900 
feet high; St. Peter's Dome, a sublime elevation of 2,000 feet, 
considered one of the wonders of the American continent ; One- 
onta Gorge, almost concealed behind towering rocks ; Multnomah 
Falls, a matchless waterfall with a sheer drop of 800 feet ; Cape 
Horn, a long palisade of basalt ; Rooster Rock, unsurpassed for 
beauty of form and variety of color ; and Cape Eternity, a mas- 
sive precipice 1,000 feet in height. 

Thorough appreciation of the surrounding charms necessi- 
tates climbing some of the neighboring hills, or traveling over 
the wooded river banks and visiting the rustic towns that lie at 
the foot of the mountains and guard the gateway to the alluring 
valleys. Near Stevenson, county seat of Skamania county, over- 
looking the cascade locks, and Carson, are several hot springs 
where accommodations for the most particular are available. 
From these towns one may follow the Wind River Valley to its 
source beyond the headquarters of the rangers where the U. S. 
forest nurseries are maintained. A few miles further are the 



State of Washington 61 

Government Hot Springs, near which many low peaks, easy for 
climbing, offer expansive views of the surrounding country. 

A twenty-five mile drive up the famous White Salmon Valley 
takes one to Trout Lake, not far from the ice and lava caves 
in the foothills of Mount Adams, and near Huckleberry Moun- 
tain, a pow-wow place for the Indians. On the way, hundreds of 
scientifically developed orchards, and oat fields yielding over 100 
bushels to the acre, are passed ; also the Northwest Electric Com- 
pany's power plant, which, generating 20,000 horse power, 
supplies power to cities seventy-five miles away. From the mas- 
sive bluffs of White Salmon a panorama of perfectly blending 
color may be seen, formed by the unusual combination of the Co- 
lumbia River and the mountains to the east and the west, while 
the entire Hood River Valley, with Mount Hood beyond, is 
visible on the Oregon side. 

The trip from Lyle to Goldendale along the Klickitat River 
is a journey of surprises. The railroad follows the winding 
canyon past pretty waterfalls, crosses hurrying brooks, and 
emerges finally into a wide, fertile plain overlooking the Colum- 
bia basin. Fields of waving grain and other products exhibit 
the richness of the Klickitat valley. Those desiring can motor 
from Goldendale into the Yakima valley or return to the Colum- 
bia via Maryhill, where Hon. Samuel Hill has built a $100,000 
road across his 6,000-acre farm. 

Nor do all the wonders belong to the lower Columbia. Be- 
fore being joined by the Snake River, it has drained a region 
noted for agricultural superiority and contributed liberally to 
the needs of irrigation. The "Big Bend" on the left, and the 
valleys watered by its tributaries from the right, are described 
under the chapter entitled "The Inland Empire." 

Following its channel still farther towards the source, wilder 
scenes are met with, the gorges are deeper, the cascades noisier, 
native trees more plentiful, waterfalls higher, and the course 
of the stream more winding. Startling phenomena appear in 
rapid succession, and scenes unimagined will astonish the tourist 
who spends a little time in re-exploring this great river, for 
ages a prize eagerly sought by the searchers for the unknown. 





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Thousands of years ago, scientists tell us, there existed be- 
tween the Rocky Mountains and the Cascade range a vast inland 
sea — the waters left imprisoned when the ocean had receded. 
After many ages these pent up waters burst the restraining 
barriers and forced their way to the ocean, creating the deep 
canyon of the Columbia, but leaving behind a broad plain, now 
known as the Inland Empire. 

What was once a desolate waste, however, has been trans- 
formed into a "Land of Canaan." Its plateaus unite to form one 
of the bountiful "bread baskets of the world" while its valleys 
yield generously of nearly all the products of husbandry. Near 
its borders the mountains, with their retinue of trees, flowers 
and grassy meadows, reach as far as the invisible power permits 
and then dispatch their emissaries, the rivers, to wind through 
and through and distribute the welcome waters that enkindle the 
irrigated districts with life and activity. 

Far beyond the boundaries of our own state spreads this 
wonderful plain, but the brief description contemplated in these 
few pages must be confined chiefly to Washington. The curious 
sight-seer or the serious homeseeker can well afford to spend 
many days exploring this region, marveling at both the mighty 
forces of creation and the embellishments of man. Under far 
more pleasant circumstances can it be traversed now than when 
the early pioneers first fought their way over the mountains. 
Lewis and Clarke, the Hudson's Bay Company men, and Marcus 
Whitman, supplemented their sturdy limbs and indomitable 
courage with the trusty saddle horse, the slow prairie schooner 
or the rude river raft. Today the palatial cars of four trans- 



64 The Beauties 

continental lines make daily trips across the state ; branch lines 
accommodate the territory north and south ; and parts not 
reached by rail are served by well constructed thorofares. 

CHIEF FEATURES. 

In addition to the Columbia river basin, the most important 
features are the Yakima and Wenatchee valleys ; the Lake Che- 
lan region ; the Okanogan Highlands with the valleys of the 
Methow, Okanogan, San Poil, Colville and Pend Oreille; 
the Spokane Country ; the Walla Walla valley ; the Snake 
River; the Big Bend and Palouse wheat sections with their 
"coulees" ; and the Blue Mountains. There are also a few low 
bare ridges of a semi-mountainous character which relieve the 
prairie effect and permit cycloramic views of the surrounding 
territory. Among these are the Saddle Mountains, the Simcoe 
Hills, and the Horse Heaven Plateau ; while a number of spurs 
from the Cascades, including the Wenatchee Mountains, help 
form the fertile valleys to the west of the plain. 

HOW TO REACH THEM. 
These different sections may be easily reached from almost 
any city in the state. Visitors coming by way of Spokane can 
make a quick yet comprehensive survey of eastern Washington 
in two ways. After seeing the immediate Spokane vicinity and 
visiting the Pend Oreille Valley to the north, either automo- 
biles or Great Northern trains will convey them up the Col- 
ville Valley to the junction of the Kettle and Columbia rivers, 
whence the trip may be continued to Republic by train, and 
down the San Poil by auto. At Rerjublic trains connect for Oro- 
ville, whence the journey may be continued to Wenatchee down 
the Okanogan Valley, both by auto and rail. Side trips may be 
taken up the Methow Valley and the Lake Chelan canyon, as 
well as to numerous .other places of interest. From Wenatchee 
the Great Northern railway or the Sunset Highway insures 
an interesting ride back to Spokane through the wheat fields of 
the Big Bend. The southern half of the region will be seen by 
making a tour through the Palouse to the Snake River and 
Walla Walla country. Transportation leads from there direct 




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State of Washington 65 

to the Columbia River, and the Yakima and Kittitas valleys. 
The Horse Heaven may be reached from Kennewick and Pasco, 
or from Prosser. 

The other plan reverses the order. After visiting the 
Palouse, Snake River, Walla Walla, Yakima, and Kittitas 
valleys, from Ellensburg a scenic overland route may be taken 
direct for Wenatchee, whence a loop may be made to include 
Lake Chelan and the Okanogan Highlands, the Big Bend and 
the Spokane Country. 

THE YAKIMA VALLEY. 

Broadly speaking, the Yakima Valley includes all the rich 
territory tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lakes 
Keechelus and Kachees, its sources in the Cascades, to the 
Columbia — a total distance of nearly 175 miles with a range of 
altitude, at the water's edge, varying from 2,250 down to 34+0 
feet. It embraces, besides the Yakima Valley proper, the Kitti- 
tas and a number of minor valleys, including the Naches, the 
Ahtanum, the Cowiche, the Selah, the Wenas, the Satus and 
the Toppenish. These last two belong to the rich country just 
south of "Union Gap," where Sunnyside and Toppenish are 
located, two enterprising cities, vieing for supremacy over the 
rich south half of Yakima county. Further south is Prosser, 
county seat of Benton county. Above the Gap is North Yakima 
with a population of 18,000, the metropolis of the region 
and home of the State Fair ; while Ellensburg, with 6,500 peo- 
ple, is Queen of the Kittitas Valley. The south half of Yakima 
county constitutes the Indian Reservation where the Yakima 
Tribes dwell peaceably by the side of the whites, tilling the 
soil and occasionally entertaining the people with many a 
"Round Up," or Wild West Show. At Fort Simcoe is their 
school, deserving of a visit from anyone interested. 

In this valley, where once was nothing but sage brush and 
bunch grass, is irrigable land enough to support a population 
of a million people ; for the total water capacity as surveyed by 
the United States Government is estimated at 927,000 acre 
feet, sufficient to water 600,000 acres. Less than a third of this 




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State of Washington 



67 



is at present cultivated and watered from small canals, built by 
private capital, and from the two largest ones in the state, con- 
structed by the U. S. Reclamation Service. These latter are 
the Tieton, with water sufficient for 34,500 acres, and the Sun- 
nyside, capable of irrigating 100,000 acres. 

A journey along the banks of these canals or the Yakima 
river unfolds a panaroma of unusual breadth and interest. In- 
stead of the heavy 
forests of the west 
side, the sage brush 
struggles for exist- 
ence just above the 
main ditches ; but the 
country below i s 
checkered with or- 
chards, farms, and 
gardens ; and cot- 
ton woods protect 
the banks of the 
streams. Impressive 
is the sight in spring- 
time when fruit trees are all in bloom and the Blossom Festival, 
participated in by a hundred-thousand people, is ushering in 
the full tide of spring ; or in autumn when deeper touches of 
color mark an immense crop ready for the harvester. 

From the hills on either side, the picture assumes its most 
perfect form. Cities, meadows, orchards, vineyards, hop fields, 
vegetable gardens, alfalfa farms, corn fields, and prairies, bi- 
sected and crisscrossed by railroads, highways, canals, and 
rivers, protected by the brown hills near by and watched over 
by the mountains in the distance, supply composition for 
pictures that in detail and variety must discourage all com- 
petition. 

THE WENATCHEE VALLEY. 

Equally beautiful but of smaller dimensions is the Wenat- 
chee Valley, reaching from the Columbia well up into the foot 
hills of the Cascades. This, too, was a desolate brown slope 




A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG. 



68 The Beauties 

until the effects of irrigation were felt on its rich volcanic ash 
soil. After that only ten years were necessary to convert it 
into a garden of dazzling splendor. Instead of the forlorn 
looking sagebrush, a maze of orchards, extending up the valley 
and ascending the hills, presents in springtime a solid mass of 
blossoms, varying from purest white to daintiest shades of pink. 
Serpentining along the hill sides, as if protecting the gardens 
below, are the great viaducts, conducting the precious waters 
that irrigate the land ; while dodging from one side of the vale 
to the other, or paralleling the Great Northern Railroad, the 
Wenatchee river hastens onward towards the Columbia. 

The north, south, and west are guarded by forest-covered 
hills, spurs of the Cascades, over which many trails lead to 
charming mountain lakes and streams, where summer homes 
are maintained, and game awaits the hunter. The east opens 
up toward the wheat fields of the Big Bend, while the Columbia 
River Valley to the north and south is tributary and joins in all 
the enterprises of the district. Every tiny tributary stream in 
the vicinity marks the location of a peaceful home supported 
in affluence by successful fruit culture or gardening. 

Within this valley are several prosperous cities, including 
Wenatchee, the metropolis of north central Washington, with 
a population of about 5,000, at the junction of the Wenatchee 
and Columbia rivers ; Leavenworth near the head of the valley ; 
and Cashmere, midway between the two. The pervading spirit 
is one of optimism and liberality, for the Wenatchee red apple 
is famous the world o'er and nets its producers $5,000,000 an- 
nually. 

LAKE CHELAN. 

Chelan, "Beautiful Water," is the name of one of the grand- 
est sheets of fresh water reposing upon the bosom of the Ameri- 
can continent. It is one of a number of beautiful lakes found 
throughout the highlands in the vicinity of the upper Columbia, 
but on account of its thrilling beauty and easy approach has 
become one of the favorite resorts for the entire northwest. 

It is reached usually via the city of Wenatchee, but some- 
times from the Columbia and Okanogan valleys on the north. 




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70 The Beauties 

River boats, automobile stages, or Great Northern trains allow 
three principal modes of transportation, each of which reveals 
different scenes of interest. During summer months the over- 
land trip is undoubtedly the most pleasant and presents the 
fullest opportunity for appreciating the scenery. The return 
might be by river boat or train, necessitating a ride down the 
Chelan gorge, where the river drops 400 feet in its brief course 
of four miles, and furnishes at low water 125,000 horsepower. 
Surpassing the canyons of the Yosemite, the Yellowstone, 
the Columbia, and the Colorado, the total depth of the Chelan 
canyon reaches in places nearly 8,000 feet, while its waters 
occasionally cover a bottom 1,700 feet below the surface. 
Throughout the 55 mile ride from Chelan to Stehekin, views 
are observed that for immensity, sublimity and color blending 
are unexcelled. Right into the heart of the Cascades the 
traveler is drawn, while the solemnity and general impressiveness 
of the whole increases, as he is gradually brought in closer in- 
timacy with divine nature. Among features of striking scenic 
importance are Railroad Creek, descending 6,000 feet in 20 
miles, the Stehekin River, and Rainbow Falls. 

THE OKANOGAN HIGHLANDS. 

This region consists of low picturesque mountains, alternat- 
ing with fertile valleys and studded with lakes protected by open 
forests of spruce, pine, and tamarac. Opportunities for the 
homeseeker, pleasure for the sportsman, and continuous scenes 
of interest for the tourist are suggested. Here one can yet feel 
the presence of the true western spirit of frontiership, for this 
part of the state was the last to be thrown open to settlers ; and 
the Indians are still in full possession of the Colville Indian 
reservation, comprising some 1,300,000 acres in the south 
central part of the section, extending from the Okanogan river 
to the eastern boundary of Ferry county. Under irrigation the 
valleys yield liberally of fruits, vegetables and dairy products, 
and the higher lands are devoted to grain and stock raising. 
Lumbering plays its part and mining for precious metals as- 
sumes greater importance than elsewhere in the state. 




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THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS. 



72 The Beauties 

The valleys of the Pend Oreille, the Colville, the Kettle, and 
the Okanogan rivers, are now served by rail; but the San Poil 
and the Methow are dependent on highway conveyances. Of 
extreme interest is the ride from Spokane up the Colville and 
Kettle River valleys to Oroville, with a short side trip to Re- 
public, the leading gold producing city in the state. The rail- 
road crosses the boundary line several times, enforcing the 
unique experience of being at one moment under the dominion 
of King George of England and the next back under the Stars 
and Stripes. Cultivated valleys, broad wheat fields, and pic- 



COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE. 

turesque canyons are invaded before arriving at the heights from 
which Oroville appears far below — requiring an hour for the 
train to descend by a series of remarkable switchbacks. 

Most of the towns in the Okanogan Highlands are still in 
their infancy, for its development has been so recent ; but there- 
in lies much of its charm. In the Pend Oreille Valley the lead- 
ing city is Newport, the county seat, prettily located on both 
sides of the river, half in Idaho and half in Washington. In 
Stevens county are Chewelah, a mining town, and Colville, the 
largest city in the region, with a population of over 1,500 peo- 
ple. A place that attracts tourists for miles is St. Mary's Indian 
Mission on the Colville Indian Reservation near Omak. Other 
interesting towns are scattered throughout the four counties. 








IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON. 



State of Washington 75 

THE SPOKANE COUNTRY. 

From the city of Spokane all corners of the Inland Empire 
are easily reached. Five transcontinental lines enter the city 
and two others operate trains ; while a network of electric lines 
serves the immediate vicinity, penetrating the territory as 
far south as Colfax, Palouse, and Moscow ; southwest to Medical 
Lake and Cheney ; and eastward to Hayden Lake and Coeur 
d'Alene. Highways have been built through the most scenic 
sections along the river valleys and up into the mountains. Each 
mode of transportation unfolds a different panorama. The hills 
nearest Spokane are covered with a dense growth of pine. Far- 
ther away are forests of pine, fir, cedar, and tamarac, conceal- 
ing many lakes teeming with trout and black bass. Within a 
radius of a hundred miles are fifty mountain lakes, thirty-eight 
of which are ideally located and supplied with all necessary equip- 
ment for camping. They include Pend Oreille, the second larg- 
est fresh water lake in the United States, fifty miles east ; Hay- 
den Lake, forty miles east in the heart of the Idaho National 
Forest Reserve ; Chatcolet Lake, thirty-two miles distant ; 
Liberty Lake, seventeen miles ; Priest Lake, seventy-eight miles ; 
Spirit Lake, forty-three miles ; Coeur d'Alene, thirty-two miles ; 
and Twin Lakes, thirty-three miles. 

The mountains are visible either to the north or the east. 
They are neither as lofty nor as rugged as the Cascades and 
Olympics, but they are nevertheless beautiful. The highest peak 
in eastern Washington is Mount Spokane, 5,808 feet, twenty 
miles northeast of the city. From its summit one may look out 
into the three northwestern states of Oregon, Idaho and Wash- 
ington, and into the province of British Columbia ; and count 
seventeen different lakes and rivers. 

Towards the north are the Okanogan Highlands with the 
valleys of the Pend Oreille and Colville, while the Bitter Root 
mountains are approached on the east. The roads westward 
and southward lead past well cultivated gardens, green meadows 
and groves, until finally is spread before one a sea of grain — 
continuous wheat fields — the Big Bend to the west and the Pa- 
louse to the south. 




INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS. 



State of Washington 



77 



Towards the east the "Apple Way," one of the most remark- 
able roads in America on account of the high class material of 
which it is constructed, enters the Spokane Valley, crosses 
the state of Idaho and connects with roads leading to the Na- 
tional Parks in Montana. This valley more than thirty miles in 
length, with an average width of eight miles, comprises a level 
irrigated country cut up into intensive garden and orchard 
tracts. Thousands are supported in affluence by raising apples, 
pears, cherries, small 
fruits, garden truck, 
poultry, and live 
stock. The advant- 
ages of abundant 
water power, prox- 
imity to a great city, 
rapid transit facil- 
ities, and a healthful 
climate, are quickly 
transforming the re- 
gion into one of at- 
tractive suburban 
homes. 

The Spokane River 
drops 1,280 feet in a 
distance of 100 miles, 
and 130 feet within 
the city limits, fall- 
i n g precipitously 

70 feet in the heart of the business section, over a dam 
200 feet wide. On both sides is built the city sloping to- 
wards its waters and overlooking the country beyond. Exten- 
sive economic developments are taking place, there being seven 
distinct projects under way which involve expenditures of near- 
ly $35,000,000. These include railroad construction, power 
plants, manufacturing and business blocks, and hotels for tour- 
ists. Historical events are associated with Fort George 
Wright, named for a famous Indian fighter ; Indian Canyon, 




METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE. 




13oX£s A y£ai^ 



SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA. 



State of Washington 79 

tribal home of Spokane Indians ; Mount Spokane, a pow-wow 
place for Indian tribes ; Fort Spokane, one of the first govern- 
ment Indian posts ; Old Block House, a protection for the early 
fur traders ; and Steptoe Butte, the scene of a famous battle. 

THE WHEAT PLATEAU. 

The wheat belt includes principally the area within the big 
bend of the Columbia river, the "Big Bend Country," which 
stretches eastward until it blends with the rolling Palouse, one 
of the richest farm regions in the northwest, and southeast 
across the Snake River to the Blue Mountains ; although con- 
siderable wheat is raised in the country lying between the 
Columbia and the Cascades, as well as in the four counties to 
the north. The green carpet is visible, in spring, and the 
waving heads of yellow grain, in summer, extending away to the 
horizon. The combined harvester, drawn by thirty-six horses, 
is a familiar example of the immensity of the machinery needed 
when gathering the mammoth crop, which for the entire state 
is in the neighborhood of 50,000,000 bushels annually. 

The Big Bend is broken in places by "coulees" cr old river 
courses, sometimes 500 to 600 feet in depth, where irrigation is 
practiced and where strings of small alkali lakes have been 
scattered. Two of the most important are Moses Coulee in 
Douglas county, and Grand Coulee forming the boundary line 
between Douglas and Grant counties, said to be the old bed of 
the Columbia. Almost surrounded by the wheat belt lies the 
Quincy Valley, containing 435,000 acres of level fertile land 
to be some day irrigated by water conducted under the Colum- 
bia river from Wenatchee Lake in Chelan county. 

The best known lakes include Soap Lake, a health resort, 
Moses Lake, near which irrigation from wells is successfully 
carried on, and Rock Lake, a rock bound sheet of water in the 
Palouse. The most important river is the Palouse which 
creates the Palouse Falls just before joining the Snake River. 
Near this stream are several prosperous cities, including Colfax, 
Palouse, and Pullman, the home of the State College and Experi- 
ment Station. 



80 The Beauties 

THE WALLA WALLA COUNTRY. 

The Snake river, largest tributary of the Columbia, with a 
canyon of 1,500 feet, cuts this plateau in two, and forms a nat- 
ural dividing line between Whitman and Franklin counties on the 
north, and Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, and Asotin on the 
south. Its warm canyon is famous for early fruits and berries 
which are shipped in carloads to eastern and western points. 

Fields of wheat, barley or rye extend southward in all 
four counties to the Blue Mountains, interrupted occasionally 
by orchards which assume their greatest proportions in the 
beautiful Touchet and Walla Walla valleys. Over this rich 
country the fair city of Walla Walla reigns supreme, her au- 
thority being limited only by the Columbia and Snake rivers, or 
the Blue Mountains ; although Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy 
and Clarkston are important centers in their own districts. 

Steeped in historical associations is this valley, from Wal- 
lula, the site of the first Hudson's Bay fort, to the city of Walla 
Walla. When once seen, no words are needed to tell why these 
lovely plains, all ready for the planting and moistened with 
sufficient rainfall annually, were so attractive to the early set- 
tlers, and inspired the first serious efforts at colonization. 

THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 

All waters of eastern Washington reach the ocean through 
the Columbia river, uniting the entire region in one spirit of fra- 
ternity. The grandest and most reaching scenic feature of the 
region, it supplies unlimited water for successful irrigation and 
power purposes, and in places still provides the principal mode 
of transportation. Between Kettle Falls and the Snake river are 
a number of important rapids, chief of which is Priest Rapids, 
just below Saddle Gap, ten miles long with a descent of seventy 
feet and a possible horse power of half a million. 

Just above the mouth of the Snake river are the cities of 
Kennewick and Pasco, ready to profit by direct navigation to 
the sea as soon as the Celilo locks are completed. At the lowest 
elevation in the Inland Empire and surrounded by a large area 
of irrigable land, they are served by three transcontinental rail- 
roads, permitting rapid transit to any part of the northwest. 




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The state of Washington is rapidly developing a system of 
roads which, finally consummated, will rival in skillful engineer- 
ing and commercial importance the French highways, and in 
scenic grandeur the mountain passes of Switzerland. Easy ap- 
proaches are being constructed to every town and hamlet and 
into every farming community. So vigorously has the work 
been pushed that Washington now outranks every other state, 
except Colorado, in the facility and directness with which its 
mountain recesses may be reached. Upwards of 50,000 miles 
have been already completed, presenting altogether a labyrinth 
of broad thorofares, boulevards, and country highways. The 
most important highways built and maintained at state expense 
are the Pacific, the Sunset, the Inland Empire, the Olympic and 
the National Park. 

THE PACIFIC HIGHWAY. 

The Pacific Highway extends from the southern limit of the 
state of California to Vancouver, British Columbia, twenty-seven 
miles north of Washington's boundary line, a total distance of 
about two thousand miles. Three hundred and fifty miles is with- 
in the state of Washington, connecting Vancouver on the Colum- 
bia with Blaine at the international line. It traverses nine coun- 
ties of Washington, containing forty-eight per cent of the wealth 
and fifty-five per cent of the population, and passes through nine 
county seats, including Olympia, the state capital, Vancouver, 
Kalama, Chehalis, Tacoma, Seattle, Everett, Mount Vernon and 
Bellingham. 

—4 




ALONG THE SCENIC HIGHWAYS. 



State of Washington ss 



From Vancouver, Washington, this highway starts northward 
through the prune and plum orchards of Clarke county where 
m0 re of these trees grow than in all other parts of the state 
combined. Along the banks of the historic Columbia and through 
the fertile valley of the Cowlitz, it winds toward Kelso, famous 
for smelt fisheries ; and Castle Rock, the gateway to Mount St. 
Helens. Deviating to the right at Vader, the north fork of the 
picturesque Chehalis is soon reached, which fertile valley is fol- 
lowed to the cities of Chehalis and Centralia, two rapidly 
growing railroad centers having a combined population oi 
15 500 people. Groves, orchards, gardens and prairies line the 
smooth gravelly road from here to Olympia, where the first view 
of Puget Sound is obtained. The desire to swerve off toward 
Grays Harbor or the Olympic Peninsula by the newly completed 
Olympic Highway, or to try the steamer on the peaceful Sound, 
is with difficulty overcome; but the Pacific Highway finally wins 
and draws one on toward Tacoma, thirty-two miles northeast. 
Rising above the famous Nisqually flats, and descending again to 
cross the oak moor lands marking the beginning of Tacoma s 
playgrounds and reminding one of southern England, the road 
soon enters Tacoma, third city in population in the state. 

Along the Puyallup and White river valleys, the course leads, 
touching at Puyallup and Sumner, famous for berry culture; 
at Auburn and Kent, centers of a rich dairy section ; and at 
Renton, bristling with manufacturing importance near the 
southern end of beautiful Lake Washington. A dozen miles more 
and you are on the streets of Seattle, metropolis of the north- 
west and third city in size west of the Rocky Mountains. 

Northward the course continues. A broad paved road winds 
along by Lake Washington to Bothel, passing several pretty 
lakes entering green woods, intersecting meadows, crossing 
streamlets, rising to sightly plateaus and descending again to 
peaceful valleys before it reaches Everett, a city of 32,000, lo- 
cated on an eminence overlooking the waters of the Sound. 

The next town reached is Marysville, whence the highway 
skirts the Tulalip Indian reservation, crosses the Stillaguamish 
river in the Sylvan Flats and enters Stanwood where a scenic 



84 The Beauties 

road branches off to Camano Island. At Mount Vernon and Bur- 
lington, where it intersects the Skagit county road leading from 
Anacortes eastward to the mountains, one may appreciate the fa- 
mous Skagit Valley, the "Holland of the Northwest," where 173 
bushels of oats to the acre have been yielded on land protected 
from the sea and river by immense dykes. 

Within ten miles of Bellingham the Water Front Road is 
reached, said to be the most picturesque on the entire route ; for 
the Sound is plainly seen from the shaded highway which clings 
to the side of Chuckanut Mountain, while the electric interurban 
and the Great Northern railway traverse the waterfront below. 
Bellingham, a city of 30,000, has innumerable attractions to hold 
the tourist, who still has twenty miles' journey if he would follow 
the Pacific Highway to the Washington limit at Blaine, the most 
northwesterly municipality in the United States. Near by is the 
Whatcom County Government Farm, the only one in the north- 
west ; where bulb growing rivals the same industry in Holland. 

SUNSET HIGHWAY. 

The Sunset Highway is the only route at present permitting 
through automobile traffic across the Cascade mountains and 
connecting the western with the eastern counties. Throughout 
its full four hundred miles from Seattle to Spokane it introduces 
the tourist to scenes which for diversity and pleasant surprises, 
varying from rugged mountains and roaring waterfalls to 
peaceful irrigated valleys or broad wheat plains, can nowhere 
be duplicated. With the exception of a few miles the grades are 
never more than five per cent. 

Branching off from the Pacific Highway at Renton, it rises 
northeastward to the headwaters of the Snoqualmie River. Just 
below the town of Snoqualmie appear the wonderful falls of the 
same name, the "Niagara of the West." This immense stream 
of water falling 268 feet, is now harnessed to supply power and 
light to the cities "and towns of Puget Sound. Following the 
banks of this river the highway penetrates entrancing forests 
and exposes many a remarkable panorama. Both road and river 
are at times clearly visible from the Chicago-Milwaukee trains 
puffing towards the summit. 





AROUND OLYMPIA, OUR CAPITAL CITY. 



86 The Beauties 

Descending, the road leads southeast along the headwaters of 
the Yakima, and skirts the eastern banks of beautiful Lake 
Keechelus, where the government is building a huge dam for 
storing water to irrigate the Kittitas and Yakima valleys. Pass- 
ing the southern extremity of Lake Kachees, another deep 
mountain lake, it soon passes Cle Elum, a coal shipping center, 
enters the broad Kittitas valley and reaches the cultured city of 
Ellensburg, mistress of the section and home of one of the state 
normals. 

The route is now northeastward over Table Mountain by a 
5,200-foot pass, permitting an excellent view of Mounts Rainier 
and Hood. The banks of the Columbia are followed to We- 
natchee, the metropolis of north central Washington and the 
famous red apple district. Crossing the Columbia it proceeds 
along its east bank to Orondo, whence, plunging through a wind- 
ing canyon, it rises rapidly to the great wheat plateau of the Big 
Bend, which bursts suddenly upon the view. Leaving Water- 
ville, the county seat of Douglas county, it turns abruptly east- 
ward to continue in an almost unbroken line through expansive 
wheat fields towards Spokane, the metropolitan city of the In- 
land Empire, over a hundred miles away. 

At Coulee City, forty miles from Waterville, it would be worth 
while to linger long enough to explore the Grand Coulee, said to 
be the old bed of the Columbia. Full of strange features, it has 
attracted attention from geographers of international reputa- 
tion. Wilbur, Davenport, the county seat of Lincoln county, 
and Reardan, besides many smaller settlements, almost lost in 
the midst of the great wheat fields, appear before the thin 
woods shading the approach into Spokane are reached. 

INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY. 
At Ellensburg the Sunset Highway connects with the In- 
land Empire Road, a southern route to Spokane via Walla 
Walla. Following "the Wenas Valley to North Yakima, it con- 
tinues southeast through the Union Gap and along the Sunny- 
side Canal, the largest irrigation ditch in the state, where a 
splendid view of the valley, with Mount Hood in the distance ap- 
pears. From Prosser, county seat of Benton county and en- 




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The Beauties 



trance to the Horse Heaven country, the road drops toward the 
Columbia river and soon reaches Kennewick, the home of early 
strawberries, and Pasco, county seat of Franklin county. 

From here the Central Washington Highway threads the ex- 
tensive wheat fields toward the northeast, passing through Con- 
nell, Lind, Ritzville, and Sprague, all important wheat shipping 
centers ; and Cheney, the site of another state normal, fifteen 
miles southwest from the city of Spokane. 

The Inland Empire Highway leads on to the beautiful city 
of Walla Walla ; but at Dayton, the quaint county seat of Co- 
lumbia county, it divides, uniting again near Rosalia, twenty- 
five miles south of Spokane. The shorter route trends north- 
east, crosses the Snake at Pataha and passes through Colfax, 
county seat of Whitman county, in the rich Palouse Valley. The 
other branch penetrates extensive barley and wheat fields, enters 
Pomeroy, county seat of Garfield county, and Clarkston, on the 
eastern boundary line, named for the great explorer. Bending 
northward it transects irrigated lands and wheat fields ; enters 





INLAND EMPIRE HIGHWAY, TEN MILES EAST OF WALLA WALLA. 

Pullman, home of the State College, Palouse, Garfield and Oakes- 
dale ; joins the other branch at the county boundary line and 
soon reaches the southern outskirts of Spokane. 

From Spokane this road presses northward through the 
Colville Valley to the Columbia, and thence to the international 
boundary line, having previously passed at Deer Park the 
Arcadia orchard, largest commercial apple orchard in the world ; 
Loon Lake, a summer resort ; Chewelah, a mining town sur- 



State of Washington 



89 



rounded by a dairying country ; and Colville, county seat of 
Stevens county and largest city in this section. A pleasant 
contrast is this northern extension, regaining the mountains 
and evergreen forests, the swiftly flowing rivers with glorious 
waterfalls, and the chains of lakes adorning irrigated vales and 
green meadows. 

OLYMPIC, NATIONAL PARK AND OTHER HIGHWAYS. 
The Olympic Highway, when the few miles from Bogachiel 
to Lake Quiniault, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, are completed, 
will form a complete loop around the Olympic Peninsula, from 
which it derives its name. Winding along at the foot of the 
mountains, it connects the leading cities of the district and ex- 
poses some of the most scenic features of the Sound country, 
including Hood Canal, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Grays Har- 
bor, and occa- 
sionally the Pa- 
cific Ocean. The 
principal cities 
touched at are 
Shelton, Port 
Townsend, Port 
Angeles, H o - 



quiam, 



A b e r - 




ANACORTES ROAD. 



deen, Elma and 
Olympia. 

The National Park Highway extends from Tacoma to Rain- 
ier National Park, whence it bears southward to the headwaters 
of the Cowlitz, crosses to the Chehalis Valley and, after connect- 
ing with Chehalis and Centralia, leads southwest, over the low 
coast range to Raymond and South Bend on Willapa Bay, 
and from there continues to the mouth of the Columbia. 

Other scenic routes are planned to cross the Cascade moun- 
tains. Two are nearly completed, viz., the McClellan Pass 
Highway, paralleling the Sunset as far as North Yakima, and 
one along the north bank of the Columbia. A third will some- 
time cross and connect the Skagit Valley with the Methow. 




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SPORTSMAN'S PARADISil 

f 1 lie antler ed monarch, or tke waste 
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This book cannot expect to win the largest measure of ap- 
proval from the followers of Nimrod unless a few paragraphs 
are devoted to the opportunities for the chase and the plentiful- 
ness of game fish and birds. Of course, the real sportsman would 
rather discover the prey for himself. To tell minutely where 
every prize is to be found would be like disclosing the end of an 
interesting story before the beginning had been read. But even 
if it were well to do so, every page in this publication would be 
needed just to mention each stream and lake containing fish, 
every coppice concealing fowl, and every wood protecting the 
quarry. 

That the common species of game .are plentiful is super- 
fluous to say. On holidays and at week ends, during the open 
season, it is a familiar sight to witness the khaki-suited brave 
looking sportsmen, with guns or fish baskets and rods, clamber- 
ing onto the trains or hiking to the nearest point where the 
welcome wocds and the realm of habitation meet. It is equally 
common to behold this same army of hunters trailing along at 
the close of the holiday, burdened with fish of many species, 
vari-colored fowl, or the hides of various game animals. 

Game birds are very prolific. Among the most prominent 
are the Chinese pheasant, bob white and California quail, Hun- 
garian partridge, and native prairie chickens ; all are found 
along the streams or in the clearings and fields of nearly every 
part of the state. Blue grouse are quite plentiful in western 
Washington and in the wooded sections of eastern Washington. 




THE ANGLER'S REWARD. 
Photo by B. C. Collier 



State of Washington 93 

Ruffled grouse are plentiful in the Okanogan Highlands and in. 
several of the western counties. All species of ducks are to be 
found on Puget Sound and along the rivers and lakes tributary 
thereto, also along many streams and lakes of the Inland Em- 
pire; while geese infest the Columbia and Snake river regions in 
eastern Washington. 

Perhaps no state in the Union has as many varieties of real 
fighting trout as Washington ; including especially the moun- 
tain, rainbow, cut throat, beardsley, crawford, lake, steel head, 
and eastern brook, in all lakes and mountain streams. Black bass 
and perch are very plentiful in the land-locked lakes ; and cer- 
tain sections produce also many varieties of white fish, sun fish, 
croppies and cat fish. The waters of Puget Sound, the harbors 
and the Columbia River contain many species of salmon. 

The commonest and most hunted large game is the deer, 
found chiefly in the hills and mountains, although in some locali- 
ties it invades the domains of domestic animals. The leading 
varieties noted are the mule and black tail, there being also a 
few white tail. In the Olympic region are large herds of elk 
and a few in the southwest and northeastern counties. These, 
however, are temporarily protected by law. Mountain goat and 
sheep are found in the rocky peaks of the Cascades ; while the 
black and brown bear are found in the wooded hills and moun- 
tains ; also occasionally cougars, wild cats, and wolves. These 
latter, however, keep themselves far removed from the main trav- 
eled roads ; only by much care are they located, so that the 
timid need have no fear of wandering in the woods alone. 

In order to insure plenty of game at the right season of 
the year, five trout hatcheries are supported by the state and a 
number by separate counties. The state hatcheries alone planted 
4,399,050 trout in 1913. The common birds are propagated 
and set free at both public and private expense. 

With nature's already liberal supply, and the state and 
counties blending their united efforts to supplement and con- 
serve, the true sportsman will never regret casting his lot with 
the state of Washington, where his outdoor propensities may be 
encouraged to the fullest degree. 




IN AND ABOUT THE CITY OF SPOKANE. 



CITIES AND SUGGESTED 




The cities of Washington are all beautiful in their natural 
setting, and reflect the originality, the energy and love for ar- 
tistic design of the people who dwell within them. In western 
Washington they are usually protected by verdure covered hills, 
and built to overlook the Sound, the harbors, or the rivers. The 
smaller towns nestle close to pretty streams which supply power 
and water. Snow capped mountains are always visible. 

The east side cities are usually near the larger streams and 
adorned with trees, both native and cultivated. Forests are lack- 
ing in the Columbia River Plain, and the brown hills are con- 
tinually in sight. In the northern counties, however, the native 
trees and mountains again become more prominent. 

All cities are well provided with spacious and comfortable 
hotels. Theaters, business blocks, school houses, churches, and 
other public buildings are of modern structure ; the streets are 
generally paved ; practically all have electric lights and pure 
running water. The homes are planned both for beauty and 
comfort, and are often surrounded by green lawns or gardens 
where hundreds of species of beautiful flowers reach perfection. 

The following pages are devoted to brief descriptions of the 
larger centers, and the more important trips from each. They 
are arranged to represent a tour about the state and in the 
order in which one might visit all, or certain ones only, with 
the least expenditure of time. The cities given have commercial 
organizations prepared to give further information regarding 
their respective localities. 

SPOKANE: Metropolis of the Inland Empire, and second largest 
city in the state. Population about 136,000. Its growth was over 500 



96 The Beauties 

per cent in twenty years. Situated on both sides of the Spokane River 
with wonderful waterfalls in heart of city. One of the leading rail- 
road centers in the west, it has five transcontinental lines operating 
on their own tracks and two others over joint tracks. Its hotels, 
theaters, public buildings, and homes, are among the most costly in 
the northwest. Its fifty-two parks, comprising 1,933 acres valued at 
more than $2,000,000, give the largest per capita park area of any city 
in the United States. Splendid boulevards within the city connect with 
broad highways leading to distant points in the Inland Empire. There 
is a boating course two miles long above the city, a municipal bathing 
pool a mile from the business center, and a zoo at Manito Park. One 
may see large manufacturing establishments, irrigation, wheat fields, 
and many big development projects within a limited area. It is the 
home of the North Pacific Fruit Distributors, which markets 60 per 
cent of the apples of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana. 

A few of the more important trips should include the following: 

Mt. Spokane, 20 miles N. E., highest peak in Eastern Washington. 

Indian Canyon, 2 miles west (Indian wigwams still there). 

Medical Lake, 16 miles S. W., famous for medicinal qualities of 
water; one of state's hospitals here. Return by way of Cheney, 
home of one of state normal schools. 

Spokane Valley, fruit section along Apple Way to Hayden Lake. 

Reardan, by Sunset Highway, 21 miles, built at cost of $194,000. 

Jas. P. Grave's model farm; Country Club on Waikiki Road. 

Arcadia Apple Orchard at Deer Park, largest in the world. 

Colville Valley, Chewelah and Colville, a rich agricultural valley, 
good roads, mountains in sight, many lakes. 

Pend Oreille Valley, Newport, lone, and Metaline Falls; see Box 
and Grandview Canyons; river falls 400 feet in 12 miles. 

Steptoe Butte for expansive view of Palouse country. 

Through the Palouse to Colfax, Moscow, and State College at Pull- 
man, one of the most remarkable rides — train, auto, or electric. 

Kellogg, Idaho, to see largest lead and silver mine in the world. 

Northern Idaho, through to Fourth of July Canyon. 

Long Lake, 30 miles northwest, $8,000,000 dam. 

See also "Spokane Country" under the "Inland Empire." 

WALLA WALLA: (Many Waters.) The "Garden City," at one 
time said to "have more bicycles, more pianos, more flowers, and more 
pretty girls than any other city in the Northwest." Population 23,275. 
One of the richest farm regions in the world is adjacent. Next to 
Vancouver, oldest city in the state, and home of first white woman 
in the Northwest. Picturesque hills, with gentle, slopes, usually cov- 
ered with waving grain, surround it; while many a little stream, 
protected by cottonwoods and birches, winds towards the larger rivers. 
The N. P. and O.-W. R. & N. railways, and Inland Empire Highway 
pass through. Trees line the well paved streets and produce a par- 
ticularly artistic effect. Here is located Whitman College, on the site 
where Stevens made his famous treaty with the Indians; the State 
Penitentiary; the Blalock Fruit Company's 1,600-acre fruit farm; old 
Fort Walla Walla, and the oldest bank in state. 




A 

O 

IX! 






O 

o 



State of Washington 



97 




A SHADY BOULEVARD IN WALLA WALLA. 



Trips should include: 

The Blue Mountains and Wenaha Forest Reserve for wild and 

rugged canyons and summer resorts. 
Toll Gate Pass, 15 miles, a resort, and the only pass to the Wallowa 

country in Oregon; 
Wallowa Lake. 
Bingham Hot Springs, 
40 miles; Clinker Hot 
Springs. 
The famous Whitman 
monument at Waiilat- 
pui, about 6 miles 
west. 
The Columbia and 
Snake rivers; Palouse 
Falls; the Little and 
Big Meadows. 
Vast wheat, barley and 
rye farms, some of 
which contain 4,000 
acres and more; also 
large stock ranches. 
The Touchet Valley, 
where diversified 
farming is success- 
ful. 
Waitsburg, Dayton, Pomeroy, Clarkston and Asotin, via Inland 

Empire Highway. 
Pasco and Kennewick at mouth of Snake. 

NORTH YAKIMA: Metropolis of the Yakima Valley, where the 
largest body of irrigated land in the state lies. Population about 19,000. 
All points in the lower Yakima and in South Central Washington are 
easily reached. Business and public buildings are of artistic design. 
City is symmetrically laid out with very wide streets, well shaded. It 
grew from a village to the metropolis in a few years, keeping pace 
with the rapid development evident all up and down the valley. A 
blossom festival is held annually in the springtime, and the State Fair 
in September. A sight-seeing electric car will take one forty miles 
through alfalfa fields and orchards where the results of irrigation 
are displayed. Good automobile roads extend in every direction. 

Trips should include: 

A climb to West Selah Heights for a comprehensive view of valley. 
Up the Atanum, past Old Mission, through the narrows to Soda 

Springs. 
Moxee Valley to see the flowing wells; on the return Mt. Rainier 

and Mt. Adams are plainly seen. 
One through Union Gap either by O.-W., gasoline motor, automobile, 

or the N. P. Ry. The towns of Sunnyside, Toppenish, Wapato, 

Mabton, Granger, Zillah and Fort Simcoe, of historic interest, 

will be seen; also largest area of sage brush land in the state. 
Bumping Lake; Lakes Kachees and Keechelus in the Cascades — 

summer resorts and storage reservoirs. 
Horseshoe Bend, past perpendicular cliffs of Basalt, following the 

American and Bumping rivers to the summit of the Cascades. 
Up the Naches Valley on the State Road, past "Painted Rocks." 



98 The Beauties 

Into the Tieton basin by pack trains; the mountain and elacial 

scenery here rivals the Canadian Rockies. 
Headwaters of the Cowiche and Wenas — good roads and scenery. 
Ellensburg via valley of the Wenas — beautiful scenery. 

ELLENSBURG: Metropolis of Kittitas Valley, of which 60,000 
acres are irrigated, while the High Line, proposed, will water 84,000 
acres more. A level country checkered with orchards, oat fields and 
dairy farms gradually rises to the foot hills of the Cascades, where 
grand mountain scenery is revealed. Estimated population about 6,000. 
One of the three State Normals is here. Splendid highways. 

Suggested trips: 

Cle Elum, 30 miles through the forest, with a good view of Mt. 

Stewart (9,470 feet). 
North Yakima via Valley of the Wenas. 
Manastash Canyon with its orchards and farms; perpendicular 

cliffs on either side. 
Lakes Keechelus, 50 miles, Kachess, 45 miles, and Cle Elum, 40 

miles. At these three beautiful lake resorts, in the heart of 

the Cascades, the Government is building, at mammoth expense, 

a system of storage dams for watering the Yakima Valley. 
Wenatchee by Peshastin Canyon, or over Table Mountain, by a 

5,200-foot pass from which Mt. Rainier, Mt. Hood, and other 

peaks are visible. 

WENATCHEE: The metropolis of North Central Washington, and 
gateway to the Wenatchee, Columbia, Entiat, Okanogan, Methow and 
Lake Chelan regions. Situated at the confluence of Columbia and 
Wenatchee rivers, with the foot hills of the Cascades a few miles 
away. One continuous orchard is seen up and down both val- 
leys. Auto roads lead in all directions to innumerable points of in- 
terest, and the navigable Columbia provides transportation for many 
miles. A labyrinth of lakes and beautiful farms are within easy reach. 
The mountain scenery is impressive. For a commanding view one 
should climb Saddle Rock. Mounts Rainier, Hood and Baker, also the 
smoke of Walla Walla are visible from some points. Population 5,000. 

Suggested trips: 

Lake Chelan, Stehekin river, Chelan Falls and Rainbow Falls by 
Red Apple route and auto stage and boat; Lyman Glacier, 20 
miles from Lake Chelan — a star trip. 

Glaciers at head of Entiat river, 38 miles. Horseshoe Basin. 

Myrtle Lake; Dumpke Lake; Emerald Park, a beautiful natural 
park, between Lake Chelan and Entiat Valley, reached by 
Government trail; good hotels. 

Waterville by stage along the Columbia, orchards, wheat fields. 

Okanogan Valley to Oroville by auto stage or train, boat part way if 
preferred. A week or more could be spent to advantage. His- 
torical sights are numerous. Near Omak is St. Mary's Indian 
Mission. Near Brewster is site of oldest settlement in state. 
Big irrigation projects are seen. Near Oroville are Osoyoos, 
Wanacut and Epsom Salts Lakes, and the Similkameen river. 
Okanogan, county seat, Riverside and Tonasket, are passed. 

Methow Valley, via Pateros, to Twisp and Winthrop; irrigation, 
captivating scenery, splendid roads. 

Colville Indian Reservation in Okanogan and Ferry counties. 

Moses and Grand Coulees; Moses Lake and Soap Lake. 




OUR TWO LEADING EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 



100 The Beauties 

Up the Wenatchee Valley by auto to Leavenworth, from which 
Tumwater Canyon, the G. N. power plant, and the government 
fish hatcheries are easily reached; also Icicle River by horse- 
back over government trail; Chiwawa River, a fishing stream, 
(auto or horse) and Lake Wenatchee, a favorite mountain re- 
sort 23 miles northwest. 

SNOHOMISH: "Garden City," second in importance and oldest in 
Snohomish county. Located in the midst of the rich dairy country 
just east of Everett, with which city it is connected by interurban and 
river boats, as well as by steam trains. See "Everett" for trips. 

EVERETT: "City of Smokestacks." Population about 32,000. 
Located on a sightly peninsula formed by Puget Sound and the Snoho- 
mish River. Views on every side are superb. The Cascades and 
Olympics are clearly visible, especially Mounts Baker, Rainier and 
many lesser peaks, including Pilchuck, always conspicuous, near by. 
Parks, boulevards and playgrounds, and beautiful homes give artistic 
completeness. The only arsenic plant in the United States is here. 
It is an important manufacturing city, especially in lumber, shingles, 
machinery and paper. Beginning at the city limits a rich dairy country 
extends to the Cascades. A yearly festival called the "Kla How Ya" is. 
held in July. The G. N., N. P., C, M. & St. P. railways and three 
interurbans center here, while automobile roads, including the Pacific 
Highway, lead to the mountains and to lake resorts. 

Suggested trips: 

Index, a mountain resort in the Cascades, from which may be 

reached Sunset, Canyon, Eagle, and Bridal Veil Falls; Lake 

Serene, Lake Isabel and many scenic peaks easily climbed. 
Gold Bar (on road to Index), to see Wallace and Olney Falls. 
Sultan for Sultan Basin and Canyon. Fishing, hunting, camping 
Granite Falls, the Canyon of the Stillaguamish, and Mt. Pilchuck. 
Monte Cristo, Snoqualmie Falls, Darrington, Scenic Hot Springs. 
Whidbey and Camano Islands with their many lakes and resorts; 

Coupeville, Oak Harbor and other towns — some excellent roads 
Silver Lake, Lake Stevens, and Snohomish and Tulalip Indian 

Reservation. 
Startup Pear Orchards, largest west of Cascades. 
Utsaladdy, via Sylvan and Stanwood passes of lower Stillaguamish 

where lie rich dyked lands. 
Hazel, 30 miles; Stockbridge dairy farm; oat fields. 
Seattle iy 2 hours to south and Bellingham 2y 2 hours to the north, 

by Pacific Highway. 
Snohomish by river boats, auto or rail. Monroe with its large con- 

densery; state reformatory here. 
Skagit Valley, Mount Vernon, Burlington, Sedro Woolley and La. 

Conner. 

SKAGIT VALLEY CITIES: Mount Vernon, county seat, Burlington,. 
Sedro Woolley and La Conner are important centers in the Skagit Val- 
ley, famous both for its beauty and because it has some of the richest 
farm land in the world, extending for miles and level as a table. Dykes 
are built to protect the country from being overflowed. Oat yields have 
been known as high as 175 bushels to the acre; while dairying is 
nowhere in the state more important, two condenseries being supported 



State of Washington 101 

in Mount Vernon. Two main railroad lines with branches, besides an 
interurban, serve the section. The Pacific Highway and Skagit County 
Highway cross at Burlington. Auto trips are made direct to Belling- 
ham, Anacortcs, Everett and east into the mountains, visible from al- 
most every point. Many beautiful lakes in region. 

ANACORTES: A seaport town on Fidalgo Island at western ex- 
tremity of Skagit county. Population about 6,000. G. N. railway and 
Sound steamers supply transportation. The Skagit County Highway 
starts here. Salmon canneries, lumber and shingle manufacturing 
and ship building may be seen to advantage. 

Suggested trips: 

South to Deception Pass by auto; cross by ferry and continue to 

Coupeville and Fort Casey. Splendid roads; rhododendrons. 
East to Skagit Valley points. Mountains and water always in sight. 
Cypress, Guemes and San Juan islands, and all Sound points. 

BELLINGHAM: Population about 30,000. Metropolis of North- 
western Washington and fifth in size in state. In vicinity are the 
largest salmon cannery in world and one of largest lumber and saw mills 
on coast. The Olympics, Selkirks and Cascades crowned by Mount 
Baker are visible from its streets. Sehome Hill, where one of the 
state normal schools is located, permits a view of Bellingham Bay 
where the ships of the world anchor. In front of city lie San Juan 
Islands; fishing craft may be seen. 150 acres of parking area have 
been provided. Pretty roads lead through big timber in various di- 
rections. At its door stands Mount Baker, one of main tourist objectives 
of the northwest, and one of the most interesting mountains on the con- 
tinent. The annual Marathon races, participated in by the athletes cf 
the world, are made to its summit and back to Bellingham. 

Suggested tours: 

Mt. Baker, for a two days' trip, or unlimited time. 

Olga, East Sound and other points on the San Juan islands; boat 

leaves every morning. See page 33. 
Lummi, Cypress, Guemes and other islands, also Deception Pass. 
U. S. Experiment Farm, via Pacific Highway; Government bulb 

farm, in full bloom during April and May; Country Club. 
Lake Whatcom, a suburban resort, 20 minutes' ride; Nooksack 

Falls; Lake Samish by Samish road through big timber. 
Blaine, most northwesterly city in the United States. Birch Bay 

and Lincoln Park, visiting also Custer, Lynden and Ferndale. 
Chuckanut Hill — view of Sound and surrounding country. 
Out in a launch to see a fish trap raised — a rare sight. 
Port Townsend, Port Angeles, Victoria, Vancouver and the ocean — 

splendid water trips. 
The famous Skagit Valley by trolley or auto. 
Anacortes on Fidalgo Island by water, auto or train. 

PORT ANGELES: Northern gateway to Olympic Peninsula and 
nearer the ocean than any other city in the Puget Sound country. 
Harbor is one of the best. Railroads are just building in. Extensive 
improvements are taking place. It has one of the largest saw and 
shingle mills in the world. No prettier scenery anywhere. 









OUR EARLIEST PIONEERS. 



State of Washington 103 

Suggested trips: 

Lake Sutherland, Lake Crescent, and Government Hot Springs. 

Sol Due Hot Springs, the "Karlsbad of America," 45 miles south- 
west, in the heart of the Olympics. Hotel cost half a million. 

Up the Elwha river into the mountains and on to Mt. Olympus. 

Hydro-Electric Power Plant, six miles east, built at cost of $2,000,- 
000.00 to furnish light and power for entire Olympic Peninsula. 

Sequim and Dungeness, by Olympic Highway, to see largest irriga- 
tion tracts in Western Washington. Mountains and Sound are 
continually in view. Trip may be continued to Port Townsend 
or along the Olympic Highway to Olympia and Grays Harbor. 

PORT TOWNSEND: "Key city" to Puget Sound. Situated on 
Quimper Peninsula with Port Townsend Bay and Admiralty Inlet, Dis- 
covery Bay, and Straits of Juan de Fuca on three sides. From Mountain 
View Park a broad outlook is obtained, which includes, besides the 
waters mentioned, the Olympic and the Cascade Mountains and 
hundreds of minor details. Other beautiful parks are Chetzemoka and 
Lucinda Hastings. Less rain falls than elsewhere in Western Wash- 
ington. Pretty driveways decorated with rhododendrons, unusual boat- 
ing possibilities and easy approach to the Olympics, make the region 
ideal for summer outings. Adjoining the city is Fort Worden, head- 
quarters for the Puget Sound system of defenses, where the 6th 
Artillery Band, one of the best in the service, renders daily programs. 
Several of the fastest passenger steamers on the Sound stop daily. 

Suggested trips: 

Fort Worden by auto and Fort Flagler by water. 

Fort Casey, Coupeville, one of the oldest towns in state, and other 

points on Whidbey Island. 
Deception Pass by water, very pretty scenery. 
Hood Canal and Discovery Bay, by water or auto. 
South through the Chimacum Valley past Quilcene, around Mt. 

Walker to Brinnon and Duckabush on Hood Canal, returning 

via Discovery Bay and Saints Rest; from Quilcene the Olympic 

Highway leads clear through to Olympia. 

SEATTLE: Metropolis of the Northwest, with an estimated popula- 
tion of 325,000. It is a city of hills, occupying the sightly eminences, 
valleys and plateaus lying between Lake Washington and Puget Sound, 
but sloping gradually to the water's edge in either direction. Its entire 
area is 94.47 square miles, which includes two large fresh water lakes, 
Lake Union and Green Lake, and nearly encompasses the Harbor 
known as Elliott Bay. It is gridironed with 237 miles of street car lines 
while an elaborate boulevard system of more than thirty miles con- 
nects its thirty-eight parks, which have a total area of 1,428 acres. 
There are also a number of children's playgrounds. From nearly all 
points there is visible either the Sound with the snow capped Olympics 
or Lake Washington and the Cascades. 

Seattle is a city marvelous both for its enterprise and for its 
beauty. Hills have given way to business blocks and thorofares, and 
at the same time have increased the area of the city by supplying 



104 



The Beauties 



material for filling in the tide 
flats, now occupied by the most 
valuable factory sites. The forty- 
two story Smith Building is the 
highest in the world outside of 
New York. At Salmon Bay the 
Government is constructing its 
second largest locks in a canal 
to connect the Sound with Lake 
Washington. Six transcontinent- 
al lines have their terminals in 
this city which is also the gate- 
way to Alaska and the home port 
of the Great Circle Route. 

Within the city one should visit: 

Lake Washington Canal Locks, 
Fort Lawton, West Point 
Lighthouse, Loyal Height. 

University of Washington and 
A.-Y.-P. E. grounds, overlook- 
ing Lake Washington. 

Lookout Tower at Volunteer 
Park. 

Lookout on forty-two story 
Smith Building. 

West Seattle and Alki Point — 
waterfront camping sites in- 
side city limits. 

Its many beautiful parks and 
matchless boulevard system. 

Outside trips should include: 
Mount Rainier, via Tacoma, 2, 

3 or 4 days — auto or train. 
Sol Due, the "Karlsbad of 
America," and Lake Crescent, 
via Port Angeles, 2 days — 
steamer and auto. 
Snoqualmie Falls (268 feet), 1 
day by Snoqualmie Pass Road. 
Cedar Falls, Lake and River, 1 day. Mount Si, near North Bend. 
Lake Keechelus, in the Cascade Mountains, 1 day. 
Hood Canal, 1 day; San Juan Islands, 3 days. See pages 29 and 33. 
Whidbey Island — Coupeville, Oak Harbor and Still Park, 1 or 2 days. 
Country Club, Richmond Beach and Edmonds — paved road. 
Bremerton, to see largest dry dock in the United States, half day. Sev- 
eral good auto trips may be taken from here. 
White River Valley, to the south, passing Kent and Auburn. A paved 

road extends all the way to Tacoma and beyond. 
Vashon Island, a large agricultural island and resort region between 

Seattle and Tacoma. 
Mt. Baker, via Bellingham, 3 days. Stop at Everett on way. 
Index, Gold Bar and Sultan for beautiful mountain scenery, fishing and 

hunting; 1 or 2 days. 
Tacoma, Olympia, Shelton and Lake Cushman in the Olympics. 




SMITH BUILDING, SEATTLE. TALL- 
EST IN THE WORLD OUTSIDE 
NEW YORK. 




HERE AND THERE ALONG SEATTLE'S BOULEVARDS. 



106 The Beauties 

Renton, a busy city just to the south of Lake Washington; go by 

the Duwamish river route and return by Rainier Valley. 
Black Diamond and New Castle coal mines. 
See description of other Puget Sound cities, all reached quickly. 

PUYALLUP: A famous berry center in the rich'Puyallup Valley. 
Over a quarter million dollars worth of berries are shipped annually. 
All Western Washington railroads serve it, while electric interurbans 
and auto cars over the Pacific Highway provide several trips per hour 
to Tacoma. The Western Washington Experiment Station is here and 
the Western Washington Fair is held yearly. It is the transfer point 
for Orting, the site of the State Soldiers' Home, and Fairfax, northern 
entrance to Mt. Rainier National Park. For trips, see "Tacoma." 

TACOMA: Population 105,000. Third city in size and importance 
in the state. Picturesquely located on Commencement Bay, one of the 
great harbors of Puget Sound. The Olympics complete the view toward 
the west while the Cascades on the east are overshadowed by Mt. 
Rainier (or Mt. Tacoma), which seems to rise from within city limits. 
A complete system of parks, play grounds and boulevards add to the 



TACOMA'S STADIUM, DURING ROOSEVELT'S VISIT, SEATS 38,000. 

natural beauty. The residence portion of the city overlooks an ex- 
tensive manufacturing section which claims the largest meat packing 
establishment in the west, the largest grain warehouse in the world, 
and the largest smelter west of Butte City, with one of the tallest 
cement smokestacks in the world. Tacoma is also the largest flour 
milling center west "of Minneapolis and the fifth city in exports and 
imports on the coast. Miles of unsurpassed highway lead south 
through a vast natural park consisting of broad prairies dotted with 
lakes and covered with groves of oak trees; or southeast into the 
famous Puyallup Valley fruit and berry district. Its improved parks 
comprise 1,120 acres, 640 of which constitute Point Defiance park at nor- 
thern extremity of peninsula, and 30 acres, Wright Park in center of 
city, having 3,000 trees and shrubs in 350 different varieties. 



State of Washington 107 

Other remarkable features are a natural amphitheater or stadium, 
seating 38,000 people; the highest lift bridge in the world and the only 
one on a grade; the Northern Pacific shops and a Union passenger 
depot, model of its kind; and a speedway of 2 1-10 miles where the 
motor races of the northwest are run. A rose carnival is held annually. 

Suggested trips outside of city: 

Mt. Rainier-Tacoma in Rainier National Park — see page 49. 

Puyallup and Sumner to see large berry and dairy farms. 

American Lake, camping headquarters for the National Guard. 

Lake Spanaway, Lake Steilacoom and Country Club, summer re- 
sorts on southern outskirts of city. Some of the best natural 
roads in the world. 

Olympia, Grays Harbor, Shelton, Hood Canal, Lake Cushman and 
the Olympic Mountains — excellent roads. 

Electron, Le Grande and Dieringer — immense water power plants. 

Eatonville, Ohop Lake, Little Marshall Falls, Wild Cat Falls. 

Kapowsin Lake, Twin Lake Farm — dozens of lakes in vicinity. 

Parkland, Fawcett Lake, Melville Springs, Clover Creek. 

Vashon Island Points; Bay Island points on Fox, McNeils, Anderson 
and other islands. 

See also descriptions of other Puget Sound cities. 

OLYMPIA: "The Pearl of Puget Sound," the "Salem of the North- 
west," and seat of state government. Three railroads and four state 
highways converge here. The waters of Puget Sound reflect the low 
verdure covered hills protecting the city and extending out along the 
shores. The mountains are seen on every side. At the edge of city, on 
the north, is Priest Point Park, of 160 acres. The end of the Oregon 
trail is marked by a monument in Capitol Park in the heart of the city. 
Tumwater, a mile away, is the site of the first settlement on Puget 
Sound. In Olympia the first store was opened for business in the state. 
The Old New England Inn, formerly the scene of all territorial func- 
tions, is marked forever by a brass plate embedded in the sidewalk, 
and the homes of the first Territorial Governor, Isaac I. Stevens, and 
General R. H. Milroy are still to be seen. 

Trips should include: 

Tumwater, Nisqually River, Tumwater Falls — trolley cars, paved 

road. 
Clear Lake, 30 miles; Summit Lake, 13 miles; Black Lake, 5 miles; 

Long and Patterson Lakes, 5 miles; Talcotts Lake, 8 miles; 

Bloom's and Hewitt's Lakes, 2 miles. 
Tenino Stone Quarry and oil prospects; Bordeaux Logging Camps. 
Hartstine, Quaxin, Stretch and many other small islands. 
Shelton, Union City, Skokomish River Valley and Lake Cushman, 

45 miles distant; Olympic Mountains and Canal always in sight. 
Grays Harbor and the beach resorts; also all upper Sound points. 

ABERDEEN AND HOQUIAM: Two cities on Grays Harbor, con- 
nected by electric interurban. The gateway to the Olympics by the 
southern route. Combined population about 29,000 (over 18,000 in Aber- 
deen), an increase of nearly 400 per cent in 14 years, due chiefly to 
lumbering and fishing industries, but farming and dairying are gaining 




IN AND ABOUT TACOMA. 



State of Washington 



109 



Near by are some of the largest trees in the state. Splendid highways, 
including the Olympic, lead in various directions, while the broad, firm 
ocean beaches a short distance away offer miles of excellent motor race 
tracks. Three transcontinental trains serve the district. 

Suggested trips: 

Cosmopolis, a pretty city of 1,200 people, just across the Chehalis 
River. A trolley line connects it with Aberdeen. 

Cohasset, Westport, Pacific, Sun- 
set and Moclips beaches, by au- 
to, train or boat — ideal sum- 
mer resorts. 

Point Grenville and Cape Eliza- 
beth, bold headlands of the 
Olympics on either side of the 
Quiniault River; near by are 
sporting grounds of the sea 
lions. 

Montesano, county seat, at junc- 
tion of Wynooche with the Che- 
halis River (boat, train or au- 
to). Land near by produces 125 
bushels of oats or 80 tons of 
rutabagas to the acre. 

Around the harbor visiting Whal- 
ing station, Government jetty 
and light house; see crab fish- 
eries; enjoy ocean swell. 

Humptulips Valley and Lake 
Quiniault in the Indian Reser- 
vation; returning by canoe 
down Quiniault River to Taho- 
la, near the oil prospects; or 
continue into the Olympics as 
far as desired. 

Read also "Harbor Country" 
chapter. 
SOUTH BEND AND RAYMOND: Two progressive cities in south- 
western Washington on Willapa Bay, one of the best harbors on Coast. 
Lumbering, farming, shell and salmon fisheries, and cranberry culture 
are sustaining industries. Read also "The Harbor Country." 

CENTRALIA AND CHEHALIS: Important railroad centers four 
miles apart, connected by trolley and half way between Tacoma and 
Portland. Combined population about 15,500 (10,000 in Centralia). A 
rich dairy and farm country surrounds them, formed by the Chehalis, 
the Newaukum and Skookumchuck rivers. About 44 trains leave Cen- 
tralia daily. Coal mines, farms and lumber are important. Between 
cities are Southwest Washington Fair Grounds. At Chehalis, county 
seat, is a large condensery. The Pacific Highway and the Rainier Na- 
tional Park Highway cross near by. 

Suggested trips: 

The oldest Temple of Justice in the state — built in 1851. 

Old Block House at Fort Borst, junction of Skookumchuck and 

Chehalis Rivers, Territorial Inn where Gen. Grant stopped. 
Boy's training school just south of Chehalis. Girl's school just 

north of Centralia. 




HARBOR COUNTRY BEAUTIES. 



110 



The Beauties 



Convict Rock Crushing Quarry at Meskill Station. 

Coal Mines at Tono and Mendota; oil wells at Tenino. 

Mossy Rock, Sulphur Springs, Sulphur Springs Falls, Cowlitz 
Gorge. 

Cowlitz Valley and Columbia River; stopping at Winlock, Napa- 
vine, Vader, Castle Rock, Kelso and other pretty towns. See 
smelt fisheries and ocean-going cigar shaped raft. 

Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake via Castle Rock — two weeks' trip. 

VANCOUVER: Oldest city in state; settled in 1824 by the Hudson 
Bay Company. It slopes gently towards the Columbia river, visible 
from all points. To the north are the prune orchards for which Clarke 
county is noted, and the English walnut seems to have found its ideal 
habitat. Adjoining city are the Vancouver Barracks, occupying 640 

acres of land, 300 of which constitute 
a natural park with many winding 
roads. State schools for the deaf and 
the blind are located near. What is 
said to be the oldest apple tree in the 
Northwest still thrives. Electric 
lines extend to the outlying districts, 
also to Portland, Oregon, while auto 
drives may be made along the river, 
nowhere more picturesque, or 
through the surrounding prosperous 
farming districts. 
Suggested trips: 

Battle Ground Lake, 20 miles 

(auto or steam cars). 
Washougal River, 20 miles east 

(auto or steam cars). 
Camas, 10 miles east, to see Crown 

Columbia Paper Mills. 
Lake Merrill, costing $25.00 for 

four or five persons. 
Portland, Oregon, the second city 
in the Northwest, soon to be 
connected by a $1,750,000.00 
bridge across the Columbia. 
North fork of Lewis River for fishing, hunting and camping. 
Mount St. Helens and Spirit Lake, 60 miles, via Lewis River. 
Mount Adams and Indian Race track in Klickitat county, via 

White Salmon. 
Several hot springs at Stevenson and Carson in Skamania county. 
White Salmon Valley (train or boat), a rich picturesque region 

adapted to orchards and farming. 
A river trip to the mouth of the Columbia or up to Celilo Falls. 

GOLDEN DALE: County seat of Klickitat county; reached via S. 
P. & S. railway. Surrounding country is one immense beauty spot with 
valleys, mountains, prairie, and timber. Mounts Hood, Adams, and St. 
Helens, are always visible. Many beautiful trips may be taken. His- 
torical sights are numerous. 




A FIG TREE AT VANCOUVER. 




ALASKA, THE LAND OF THE NORTH. 



ALASKA - OUR ALLV^^ 

-A.lan.a. 01 allixr-emerLt and. promise, 
±5olcL -venture and stremcerixs cLeecL . 




When you have seen Washington, the vast territory of Alas- 
ka awaits you. Alaska, the last of the undeveloped free em- 
pires ! This region is so extensive that even the state of Wash- 
ington would be lost in its midst, for its area is equal to that of 
the original thirteen colonies, with Maine, Vermont, Ohio, In- 
diana, Tennessee, Kentucky and Michigan thrown in, or one- 
fifth of the entire United States. It has a range of latitude of 
1,100 miles, while its extreme longitude would reach from the 
Atlantic to the Pacific. 

In proportion to its vastness, so are its wonders. Stupen- 
dous mountains reach to three and nearly four miles in height, 
loftier than any others in the United States or its possessions. 
The Yukon River is 2,300 miles in length and its nearest rival, 
1,000 miles. The biggest glaciers in North America are here, 
which make those of Europe look like mere pygmies, and vol- 
canoes still in eruption may be viewed from a safe point. The 
scenery produced by the green rock-bound fiords with the snowy 
peaks beyond is truly magnificent. 

It is also a great treasure house. By the end of 1914 there 
had been produced, $540,000,000, or about 75 times the price 
paid for its purchase, representing over $15,000.00 for each 
white person now inhabiting it. Almost half was from gold min- 
ing and within the last twenty years. The rest was from fisheries, 
seals, furs, copper and silver — permanent resources of regie 

Alaska is not cold and bleak like Labrador, although its lati- 
tude is similar. The Japan current acts as it does on Washing- 
ton and as the Gulf Stream affects England. Both plant and 
animal life flourish and about 100,000 square miles of land are 
available for agricultural purposes. 

To partially realize its glories take the inside passage trip 
from Seattle — a thousand miles of calm sea. 



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